Amazon Prime for Veterans: Don't Bother!

WARNING: The "Amazon Prime for Veterans" program is an absolute joke.

You DO NOT get Prime at a reduced rate ($79 v. $129). Instead, you get to pay for NEXT YEAR'S Prime fee now (e.g. an interest-free loan to Amazon).

First, the registration portal told me I was "not eligible." (I guess 21 years total active and reserve US Army service didn't make the cut?).

So I wrote Amazon "customer service" (ACS). With no explanation I was declared "eligible" (no documents, no proof -- just "OK, you're signed up.")

Fine. I went through the order process and received confirmation. The next day I see two charges for "Amazon Prime Membership" on my bank account. One for $129 (the regular Prime fee now) and an additional $79 (the so-called "discount").

I wrote to ACS: "I do not want to pay for Prime twice."

Amazon Customer Service (ACS) response: "You get to pay for this year and you have a discount for next year."

I replied: "I don't want a discount next year."

ACS response: "But you have a discount next year."

I replied: "I don't want to spend a discounted excessive amount."

ACS response: "It's nonrefundable. But if you cancel the discounted extension, you cancel Prime."

After 4 cycles of this stupidity, I've reached two conclusions:
1. Amazon "customer service" is now merely feeble-minded bots.
2. It's time to move my online shopping experience elsewhere.

Bont Helix Cycling Shoes Review

This is a follow up review to my earlier combined review of several cycling shoes.

I eventually settled on the Lake shoes and have ridden them at least 1500 miles. They're solid, comfortable, and well-made.

I intended to return the Bont Helix shoes but instead they sat in my office. I tried selling them on ebay but no one reached the reserve.

So I decided to give them a try since they were mine now.

As soon as I slipped them on I was reminded of that blasted foam strip on the tongue that presses against the top of the foot. Since it wasn't fair to judge the shoe base don this one feature I put on some Look Keo Red cleats and strapped on the shoes.

Wow -- these felt snug, but not uncomfortably so. The single Boa strap actually works -- the forefoot isn't squeezed but the heel and top of the foot are secure.

Where these shoes really shine are weight and stiffness.

Wow.

These shoes are meant for racing. They are stiff, lightweight, and snug. You will lose no watts to flexy soles or loose connections between pistons and platforms.

On second thought, the Bont Helix is my new favorite shoe for summer riding (they are too snug to fit a thick sock, which is fine).

I only wished I'd chosen white.

 But the black is classy.

Nevertheless, highly recommended!

1500 miles for Water of Life

In June 2017 I was scheduled for heart valve replacement surgery. The Saturday before, I went for a short ride that ended when my front wheel slipped in a wet parking lot. I fell at slow speed, fracturing my pelvis.

Two months later I was back on a stationary bike, the surgery postponed until I was fully recovered.

Four months later I learned my heart condition was no longer an issue and the surgery was indefinitely postponed. There was no medical explanation -- just clearance to resume normal activity.

So I'm riding again, but this time I want to make it count. I'm averaging at least 100 miles a week (October 6th I rode the Seagull century in Salisbury, MD, finishing in 5 hours, 10 minutes). with a goal to ride 1500 miles between August and Christmas day, 2018, to raise money for Water of Life.

(You can donate here: Dan's Water of Life Fundly Page)

Water of Life is a 501(c)(3) charity dedicated to serving people in India and West Africa by drilling wells to provide clean water.
It's more than a well, though. Water of Life has 5 "drops of impact":

1. Give clean water
2. Offer education
3. Provide employment
4. Disrupt the statistics
5. Offer spiritual infrastructure

Click here to learn more about the mission and ministry of Water of Life.

Road Shoe Comparison Review: Bont Helix, Fizik Infinito R1, Sidi Millenium Carbon, Louis Garneau Course Air Lite II, Giro Empire, and Lake 237

I replaced my ever-faithful Sidi Millenium Carbon (circa 2014?) shoes last year with the highly-touted Giro Empire.

Giro Empire (2017)

The Empires were attractive as they dispensed with all the lace/clamp/crank silliness and permit straightforward tying of shoes.

Giro Empire

The fit and weight reminded me of my first road shoes: 1980 Detto Pietro all leather, made in Milan Italian shoes, and the replacement Brancalles (also Italian).

Italian shoe lasts seem made for my feet -- snug, yet comfortable.

But despite the Giro Empire's overall fit, on longer rides my toes were cramped. As mileage increased each month I was dealing with ingrown toenails.

So the search began for quality replacement with slightly more toe room without having to settle for a sloppy fit (and the worst -- a loose heel).

Before long it became very clear that shoe sizes for cycling shoes are nowhere near standard. Sizing was inconsistent and completely unpredictable.
.

Iv'e bought dress shoes and sneakers online in US Men's 10.5 D width for years. They arrive, I try them on, they fit.

Not so with cycling shoes.

Fizik Infinito R1
The first replacements I tried was the highly regarded Fizik Infinito R1.

Fizik Infinito R1

These were beautiful, minimalist shoes. Weight was as advertised, sole felt very stiff, and the build quality top notch. These are Very Good shoes.

I really wanted these to fit.

Alas, they did not. A size down would likely not work, as there were snug as well as loose areas.

These shoes just weren't made for my foot. I reluctantly sent them back.

Louis Garneau Course Air Lite II
I like Louis Garneau products. First, he's Quebecois, from Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures, a few miles from my childhood haunts in Ste Foy.

Second, I've come to rely on the fit and finish of Garneau jerseys, bibs, and even socks (though Pactimo has my top spot for bibshorts -- Mille pardon, Louis!)

LG Course Air Lite II

And third, Louis Garneau knows cycling. He's an Olympian and continues to ride and support cycling throughout Quebec.

So I had high hopes for LG's high end shoe offering.

Unfortunately, these size 10.5 were too big.

In addition, I was not a fan of the plastic feel of the upper material. I know no one uses leather anymore, but at least try to mimic the soft, moldable feel of leather. Instead, these felt more like ski boots. That's fine, but just not for me.

The color was also off, in a weird lipstick red that just didn't match the catalog image.

I sent these back reluctantly.

The search continued.

Bont Helix
Bont shoes are different. The Australian company's roots are in inline skating, but they saw the need for cycling shoes that connected the rider to the bike. The concept is sound. The shoes have moldable soles that are very stiff and cradle the foot. The uppers are strengthened with Kevlar to avoid stretch.

They were well made but lacked the sophisticated fit and finish of the Giros and Fiziks. The stack height of any cleat would have been the lowest of any shoes (I did not mount cleats but looking at the cleat mount position relative to other shoes it was clear these were meant for direct connection to pedals).

The single Boa strap concept is intriguing, but in trying thes eon I found the top of the Boa tightened long before the forefoot portion. perhaps use and break-in would change this.

The shoes did not fit, and in fact had a rather annoying padd on the tongue that pressed against the top of my foot ("Extensor Retinaculum") and would have been unbearable in short order.

I really wanted to like these shoes. They seemed built for pure speed, and looked slick and did not crush my toes. But they just did not feel good on my feet. So off they went.

Lake 237
My first order was for Lake's high-end shoe in size 10.5 in white. the shoes arrived and looked and felt positively sublime.

White cycling shoes are super classy, but I've never had a pair because I just know they'll get dirty and look awful in a month. The Lake 10.5 was comfortable, but loose. I absolutely cannot bear loose cycling shoes (if I could mount a set of Look red arc cleats to the balls of my feet tied down with 2" steel banding straps I'd be fine).

So -- yet again -- I reluctantly sent these back BUT requested a pair in size 10 D in black.

They arrived. 

I slipped them on.

Love.

These should be described as "Cycling Moccasins."

I finally took them out for a ride (28 miles with a few hills) which is pretty dumb, since every new shoe requires a bit of break in (my set-in-their-ways muscles and tendons get used to position within millimeters and complain about any change).

These shoes felt comfortable, I felt connected, and before long forgot I was wearing new shoes. 

Until I tried to wiggle my toes and I could! I could feel the ball of my foot fully engaged with the footbed. I could shift my foot inside just enough to ensure circulation was uninhibited.

Eventually I will replace the insoles (the Lake-provided insoles are thin).

I was wearing my normal uber-thin socks and the shoes were fine. The Boas were eeasy to manipulate, and I appreciated the micro loosening as well as tightening.

So my new go-to shoes are the Lake 237 in size 10 D, black. They may not be for everyone, but I think these are the best higher-end mass-produced shoes for my feet.

Long term review to follow.

Pactimo Men's Bib Short Review

My mileage is creeping back to normal levels despite continuous rain this summer. I avoid riding on wet roads (especially after last year's crash put me in the hospital), so I work around the weather and ride early in the morning or at lunchtime, if workload permits.

I committed to riding 1500 miles between August 15th and December 25th this year for a worthy charity we support (www.givefreshwater.org). So when I get to ride, I try to log a few more miles to add to the total.

Some of my old tried and true bibs just weren't providing the protection I needed in the saddle. Either the chamois has worn or I have. Either way, it was causing problems (as anyone who's ever had saddle sores can attest).

I have one excellent set of Course ("Race") bib shorts from Louis Garneau, purchased during an end of year sale a couple of years ago that provide the needed protection. I decided to add another to the drawer but was having a hard time finding equivalents.

Then I remembered Pactimo, and did a bit of online research. The price is a bit higher than my normal PI/LG fare, so it took a few days before I hit "Submit Order." When I did, I chose the Summit Raptor RT 2.0 bibs in XL, since the other Pactimo products I have run small.

A few days later the bibs arrived and they fit like an XL on a L body. So a quick return call and a few days after that the L arrived. I tried them on and was very pleased.

The material is soft, and in no way constricting (the trend lately is compression fabrics, which provides dubious benefits for performance). The straps were right-sized and unnoticeable. And the chamois seemed well-placed and soft without being squishy or overly thick -- like a diaper (as so many "long haul" chamois seem to be).

I put them on and went for a ride and was very pleasantly surprised in that very soon, I forgot about the new bib shorts. Which is probably the highest praise I can give to a riding garment.

I've used these shorts several times since then on rides up to 50 miles and I have no saddle sores, no discomfort, and no complaints. In fact, I am so impressed by these sorts I just ordered another pair.

If you're looking for a pair of well-made, well-designed, and effective bib shorts for rides over 25 miles, you can end your search and head over to www.pactimo.com

You'll be glad you did.

--------------------------- Century Ride Addendum ----------------------

In early October I rode the Seagull Century in Southern Maryland. The Seagull attracts  thousands of riders for the metric and real century rides. The roads are lightly trafficked and flat. Really flat (1,000' elevation gain over 102 miles is flat).

So I rode a 5 hour century in spritzing rain and never really thought about the bibs until 10 miles to go when everything's annoying. Then I rolled past mile 100, 101 (wondering what type century I actually signed up for) when the finish came in view.

I felt as good as expected after a century averaging just under 20 mph (riding solo, with no team and only occasional pack rides as they either blasted past or they joined me until dropping off). I didn't have the normal miles in I would have by October so I felt pretty good about this one.

I was also very pleased with the Pactimo bibs and jersey (yes, I wore a matching set because road rules don't go away just because you let your USA Cycling license lapse...)

Great Afternoon for a Ride

Commuting vs Riding

I've had a bit over a year to experience bicycle commuting. I do not ride to work every day for several reasons:

• Weather: I won't ride in snow, ice, heavy rain, high winds, or thick fog -- these roads are fairly busy and drivers are minimally attentive.
• Clothes: If I run out of spare clothes at the office and can't fit a change into my backpack.
• Fatigue: My shortest route is 15.5 miles one way. I always plan to ride at least 16 MPH, while I'm usually closer to 17. Ambling along at a slow pace isn't an option. So after a couple of round-trip days, or extra hard rides due to speed or conditions, I drive in.
• Tolerance: Some days I just don't want to deal with the close calls and other frustrations. These days are rare but they happen.

I'm averaging 3 days a week commuting, 33-39 miles each round-trip day, 17 MPH average over typical rolling terrain (800-1000' elevation gain) while wearing a backpack between 5 and 10 lbs.

Here's what I've learned in the past year:

• Baby wipes are great
• Short hair helps
• Beat the school traffic
• Carry enough food
• Stage one more set of clothes than you think you'll use
• Buy and use chamois cream
• Tough tires are good (my current favorites are Continental Grand Prix All Season, 700x25mm)
• Saddle bags have a place
• Panniers don't
• Headlights are critical
• Tail lights should be as bright as possible
• Ride a few extra miles to avoid busy roads
• Change the route enough to keep it interesting
• Don't be afraid to rest (i.e. "Not Ride")
• Secure your bicycle inside
• Always have a rescue plan
• Don't ride in snow, ice, heavy rain, high winds, or thick fog
• Wave at other riders. Every one.
• Riding for transportation can become a drudge, and rob some of the enjoyment riding brings. Fight to keep the joy.

Feeling Strong

Every so often the right combination of energy, enthusiasm, capacity, and will merge to form a good ride.

It's not necessarily the fastest ride, since you never feel torn up, or wrung out, or at the edge of endurance or pain threshold.

But you feel good -- the pedals turn easily, the pavement rolls by quickly. Breathing is rhythmic, the HRM ignored, the wind a steady accompanist.

I wish I know how to create those conditions at will.

I certainly can't predict them.

Some days I roll out thinking, "I'm beat -- I don't feel like pushing today..."

Other days I can't wait to ride. I'm sure it will be a fast, strong ride.

And then I feel like I'm pedaling in wet cement.

But the strong days -- as infrequent as they seem to be -- are what make all the other days worthwhile. You've put in the miles, made the climbs, pushed against the headwinds, felt the sting of ice.

Today you reap the reward -- flying under your own power.

Forget the HRM, the speed, the KOMs, and the PRs.

Feel strong, use it, enjoy it.

So you can recall it next time you're not so strong.

It will come again.

Someday.

Continental Grand Prix All Season Road Tire Review

My daily commute varies from 15.5 to 18.5 miles each way over varying road surface including several miles of shoulder filled with glass, debris, gravel, and dead critters.

Typical Shoulder Debris

I've been running Vittoria Rubino Pro 3 tires (23mm) but after several inconvenient flats (wire shards and glass) it was time to go tougher during the winter.

Continental Gatorskins are the standard tough tire, but I've never liked the ride, which I find disconnected and sluggish.

During nice weather I prefer Vittoria Open Corsa CX III or Continental Grand Prix 4000 IIs -- each is fast, grippy, light, and works well pumped up to 100-130 PSI. Neither is intended for the rigors of commuting.

A normal, non-commute ride is intentionally planned for smooth, less-traveled roads. These rides happen in daylight. A flat is an interruption, but that's about it.

Commuting implies a limited subset of routes to get from home to work in a reasonable time. The roads might be busy, the shoulders filled with debris, and the surfaces variable (from smooth pavement to cinder rail-trail).

Junction Rail Trail Entrace

 For several moths in the year all or a large part of the ride is conducted in the dark.

Our experience with the Conti GP All Season on our tandem has been good. I decided to try a 25mm rear, 23 mm front.

Since the majority of my riding is now in the dark I usually can't spot debris until it's too late. No matter - these tires just roll on through.

I have 500 miles on the pair and there is no visible wear yet. I run them at 90 PSI each. I'm not chasing KOMs this time of year but I haven't noticed any slowing due to tires.

These are excellent commuter-trainer tires. I can highly recommend.

Warm (OK, Hot) Weather Commuting

It's been hot here lately....

In the mornings the temperature has been hovering around 70, with temps on the evening ride in the high 80s to mid 90s.

As is usual for Southeast Pennsylvania, the humidity has been high, resulting in summertime weather report monotony:"Hazy, Hot, and Humid"

Hazy, Hot, and Humid

Since I ride year round and remember how cold and dark it was a few short months ago, how slowly my Michelin-man profile moved through the cold winter air, and how many layers of clothing were required to avoid frostbite.

A few short moths ago....

Still, riding in the heat does have unique challenges and even dangers.

So here are a few tips:

• Use lightweight, breathable, high-end cycling clothing
• Unless your commute is very short or you ride very slowly, plan on wearing cycling clothing and let it wick away your perspiration. No cyclist should be wearing anything made of cotton shirt, socks, or shorts -- you're just asking for chafing!
• I've been very pleased with clothing from Pearl Izumi, Louis Garneau, Giordana, and Voler. Performance and Nashbar have good products but the cut is more club and I'm a thin roadie.
• Wear a wicking undershirt and beanie

• This used to be standard among the pros but I still use a thin, cycling-specific undershirt such as the Sugoi RS base layer.
• I use a number of different caps, but the Headsweats Skullcap is the lightest. When it's REALLY hot a few squirts with the water bottle helps cool things down. The white material helps reflect sunlight that gets in through the vents of my Giro Synthe helmet.
• Freeze water in your bottles overnight

• When it's really hot I fill a bottle to 1/3-1/2 capacity and then put it in the freezer. In the morning I add fresh water and go. It helps to have cold (or at least cool) water to drink. An insulated bottle will help a bit but when it's 90 F or more, don't expect it to stay cold for long.
• Avoid long climbs in the afternoon
• If I'm going to do hills I ride those in the AM. In the afternoon I'm maxed out with the sun and the heat reflecting off the pavement. I save the hard efforts for mornings.
• Keep the cadence up
• This might seem counter-intuitive but it works. Pushing a big gear slowly (75-80 RPM) results in a bigger work effort (and heat load) for slower speeds. A slightly lower gear and higher cadence keeps the speed up and provides a cooling breeze. It also imposes less stress on the body.
• Get to work early enough to cool down a bit before changing
• This can be tough to pull off, but if you work in an office, it's good sense to cool off a bit before changing into your work clothes. If you can't do this, reduce your effort level the last mile or so so you're cooling down as you approach work.
• Spray your cycling shorts with alcohol before hanging them to dry
• This provides two benefits: 1) sanitizes the shorts so you're less likely to develop saddle sores, 2) helps reduce drying time.
• Hang everything to dry (!)
• This is likely work-area dependent but if at all possible hang your kit to dry, otherwise saddle sores will be your lot and you will not like it.
• Pre-hydrate
• I try to drink a bit before I leave so I don't have to carry two bottles. I usually don't take my first drink until at least 20 minutes into even the hottest rides.
• Back off hard efforts a bit when the temperatures exceed 85 F
• This should be "common sense" but we all think we're getting a "better workout" in the heat. You're not -- your body is unable to cool as effectively and so you are not capable of as much work as you would be in less stressful temperatures. Dial it back a bit and save the hard efforts for the morning.

Cote de la Montange, Quebec

Cycling Quebec City

Janet and I have been spending a week in Quebec City for the last few years as our vacation getaway. Quebec was where I spent each summer of my childhood and I only have fond memories. It's a beautiful town in a gorgeous spot (the French knew where to plant cities!). While French proficiency is not required, even a tiny bit (Yes, no, please, thank you, and hello) helps.

One of our favorite activities is bicycling. We have a Cannondale road tandem and I ride a Cannondale CAAD 3. We usually ride the tandem a couple of mornings and I ride solo the other days.

Quebec is a great place to ride due to the extensive paved bike paths all around the city.

Here are a few of our favorite places to ride:

Boulevard Champlain Bike Path (Route Verte) Loop (13 Miles)

Route map

This pathway is very popular with locals -- it's flat, scenic, and provides many places to stop and enjoy the view of the St Lawrence river, bridges, and the escarpment on either shore. The path is usually crowded with walkers, roller bladers, joggers, and cyclists of all different levels so if you want to hammer, go early. You may spot some large ships making their way up or downstream. There are a series of outdoor public sculptures as you approach the bridges. The mostly-green cantilever bridge is the Quebec Bridge, completed in 1917, after the first attempt at building a span collapsed, killing 75 workers (more on the Quebec bridge here)

The taller suspension bridge is Pont Pierre Laporte, completed in 1970. The Quebec bridge has a train deck and auto deck. Pont Pierre Laporte is a highway bridge (the longest non-toll suspension bridge in the world).

Quebec City to Beauport to Petit Pre Out and Back (28 Miles)

Route map

This ride follows paved bike path east of Quebec. The route is flat and scenic once you move away from the roads and bridge just east of town. You will pass the Montmorency Falls and then ride along the route of the earliest settlements in New France. If you are feeling strong take one of the roads to the left and climb the escarpment at Boischatel, Ange Gardien, or Petit Pre.

Island of Orleans (Ile d'Orleans) Loop (41 Miles)

Route map

This is a long, tough ride around the beautiful Island of Orleans. The island sits in the center of the St Lawrence river and has a microclimate that has created an ideal environment for farming. You will pass villages settled in the 1600s, and churches standing since the 1730s. There are many tourists stops along the way and several beaches, where hardy folk bathe in the south channel of the St Lawrence (tides are in effect here, so a "beach" now might be underwater later in the day).

The roadway is narrow. While most locals know to slow and pass safely, there is the occasional person in a hurry. Be careful and establish a position in the lane that forces drivers to negotiate around you.
The landscape becomes more rural the further west on the island you are, so be prepared with all essentials as you may not have access to a depanneur or tabagie ("convenience store").
This is a ride any serious cyclists should do at least once.

GP Quebec Partial Course Loop (6 Miles)

Route Map

I recommend you do this early on a Saturday or Sunday morning or you will be mixing it up with traffic on some of the listed streets. The best time to ride this route is an hour before the GP Quebec race starts, but that's only one day a year. While it's short, it can be combined with other routes to extend the mileage. But it's a tough loop with two hard ascents up significant grades (over 10%).

Tough Guy

I try to commute by bicycle 2-3 days a week from Mount Joy to Lititz. A one-way trip of 16-18 miles takes about an hour (depending on the route and energy level and winds). I take as many back roads as possible to avoid cars and slowing down traffic (the direct route on state route 772 would be suicidal).

At least twice a week i encounter some new jackass who thinks its 'fun" to harass or threaten a cyclist. I ride to the right, keep my speed up, and do whatever it takes to avoid being an impediment to traffic.

Nevertheless, enough of them are driving with some inner rage that turns them to into homicidal jerks.

Yesterday morning I encountered one of these embarrassments to the gene pool on the quiet stretch of Auction road that runs through the tiny collection of houses known as "Junction." The speed limit here is 25. I was travelling 20.5 through the S curve just before town.

As soon as I exited the curve I could hear the truck coming up fast and close.

I moved over as far to the right as possible (even though there was NO oncoming traffic), and then mush-brain decides to pass me two feet from my left.

Two feet at 20+ MPH is CLOSE. There are rocks, potholes, broken glass, and sticks on the right side of all the roads.

As you can see in the following stills from the video I captured, he passes close (very close -- the mirror was within inches of my head) and then PULLS OVER TO THE RIGHT and applies his brakes.

The fish eye lens of the GoPro makes it appear a bit further than it actually was, but the roadway here is 17' wide. the centerline is 8.5' from the right edge. A Ford Pickup is 8.7' wide (104.9").

You'll see in the still below that the minimal IQ driver of this pickup truck is completely in the right lane:

Jackass PA Plate: ZBD-5414

So that leaves less than 8" from the side of his truck to the edge of the road surface.

Taken 7:12 AM, 11 May 2016 on Auction Road in Manheim Borough.

Less than 2' away. Clearly intentional.

Wannabe Cop

Commuting is hazardous, especially when idiot drivers ignore the law and basic safety. This moron backed up to argue with me. Of course I captured it all on video.

PA Plate JPZ-1937

Video of the confrontation:

Here's What a Jerk Drives: Beige 2002 Honda Odyssey, PA plate: HFG-3592

Here's a picture of a driver who passed me doing at least 70 MPH southbound on Auction Road  at 5:53 PM on Wednesday, April 14th:

The 2002 Honda Odyssey that nearly killed me on Auction Road

Here's the video:

The vehicle appears further than it actually was due to the fish-eye lens on the GoPro mounted on my front handlebars. The yellow lane divider line is 8.8 feet from the right edge of the roadway. However i am riding 2' from the right edge due to the broken pavement all alpng the edges of this road.

There is NO WAY the driver has provided 4' distance from a cyclist as required by Pennsylvania law:

Four Foot Buffer Requirement: When passing, drivers must allow at least four (4) feet between the right side of the vehicle and the left side of the bicycle [75 Pa.C.S. § 3303 (a) (3)] . When safe to do so, it is legal to cross the center double yellow line if necessary to provide the required four feet when passing a bicycle [75 Pa.C.S. § 3307 (b.1)].

My handlebars are 42 cm (1.3 feet) wide. Seated on the bicycle in normal riding posture I am approximately 1.5 feet wide (I'm 6'1", 180 lbs).

If I'm 2' from the right edge and 1.5' wide = 3.5' to my left edge.

The lane is 8.8 feet to the edge of the grass.

That leaves 5.3' of distance between me and the centerline.

Yet in the image above you can see the Odyssey is straddling the centerline.

A 2002 Odyssey is 76.3" wide (6.4 feet)

Assuming directly over centerline that 3.2' in the 8.8" wide lane, there's 2.1' between my left edge and Honda's right edge.

This 2002 Honda Odyssey van has Pennsylvania registration: HFG-3592.

I will post a video this evening. In the video his speed is apparent as he has to brake when he runs up behind the vehicle in the distance.

So I sent an email to the Manheim Borough Police Department with the picture of the car attached (which clearly displayed the license plate).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

UPDATE

I was contacted by the MBPD Police Chief who explained they can't really issue a citation if they can't positively identify who was driving. They have the vehicle info and traced it but the driver wouldn't be obvious given the addresses. They will follow up and ask me to testify if it goes to court.

I'd happily participate.

------------------------------------------------------------------------


Some police departments get it. The Bangor, Maine PD certainly does:

Drivers and Cyclists

Lancaster County: Yesterday's Commute

Going anyway...

Bike commuting is sometimes a challenge.

Of course there's the need to haul food, clothing, and other supplies (in my case it's a combination of staging on days I drive in and riding with a backpack).

Then there's the early morning starts (If I'm rolling by 0630 I can be at work in time to change and get some breakfast before the calls start).

It's often cold in the mornings so there's more clothes to wear, hang, wash, carry up hills and push through the air.

Hazards

There is the occasional moron driver, who believes it's far too difficult to move off their selected path more than 3' feet (This specimen is usually driving twice the posted speed limit and is horribly upset if confronted). Laziness, stupidity, or viciousness -- or perhaps all three -- compels this driving style.

Of course I have rear blinkers, reflective bands, a bright day-glow jersey, and decent head lights, so seeing me shouldn't be a challenge.

Alas it is, for some poor souls.

Anyway, the one benefit of early morning rides is lack of wind. Most days.

This morning served up a fresh northeast breeze at 7-9 MPH. It may not sound like much but it's just enough to knock a mile or two off the average speed and increase the perception of required effort.

Downhills aren't as fast and uphills aren't easier.

About halfway into the ride I thought, "I don't want to do this."

Uh Oh

Most days I look forward to the ride -- it's a bright spot when I can breathe fresh air, feel strong and active, see the countryside pass by, and enjoy the sunrise.

But a very busy week of work and a couple of hard days on the bike (wind in March -- imagine that) sapped me of some enthusiasm.

This is where cycling is a microcosm of life. There are moments when you just want to throw your hands up and say, "I'm done."

But I'm somewhere on Long Road with no bus stop, no taxi, and no one nearby to push me up this next little rise. It's me and this assembly of aluminum, synthetic ribber, spandex, nylon, electronics, and cork bar tape and the only entity on the planet moving me form where I am to where i need to be is me.

I shift down and spin -- 85... then 87, then 90, now 94 RPM.

The road levels.

The sky ahead is bright with sunrise pink-orange glow.

There are no cars. Cows stand in the field munching fresh grass.

The wind abates for a moment.

One More Mile

So I make a deal -- Get to the end of this road....

Or what?

Just work on that. We'll talk later.

The pedals spin. I turn onto a slight downhill grade. Speed picks up. I get on top of the gear, pushing steadily. 20, now 21 MPH. The road rises -- the Garmin hangs at 17.8.

I make it to the end and forget the deal. Negotiate the bends, make it through the light, fly down the stretch, wait for a break in the traffic -- keep going...

I forget about my momentary lapse of will until I turn onto Highland road, a short little deal that climbs up the backside of Kissel Hill.

It might be 8 % but it's not that long but this morning I dread it like a second lap on Alpe D'Huez.

So what?

Shift down, keep the pedals spinning, get up this thing.

The backpack feels like I'm carrying an anvil inside a 5 gallon bucket of water.

I crest the hill, go over the next little rise, descend into Lititz, take the fast track north on 501, staying ahead of the truck that really wants to pass me.

I'm a mile form the office. I can low crawl the rest of the way. Now get going!

A few more blocks and I roll into the parking lot. 18.2 miles have been covered since I rolled out in the dark away from our warm, spacious house.

That wasn't so bad...

It should be 72 F when I ride home tonight.

That will be nice...

Momentary lack of will forgotten, new horizons beckon -- why did I doubt?

I doubted so I can remember this the next time I face the will-sapping questions that penetrate even the strongest will. Can you do this? Why are you doing this? Just stop...

Get thee behind me, Satan.

Road Cyclists, Drivers, and The Law

Road cyclists who log lots of miles tend to have fairly frequent interactions with discourteous and even homicidal drivers. About once a week I have some pass very close or at very high speed. About once a month someone will pass on a blind corner of hill and then dive back right (towards me) when faced with incoming traffic.

Every so often I catch the driver at a light or stop sign. It never goes well.

Here are the usual brilliant retorts:

• "All you guys think you own the road!"
• "Get off the road! You don't belong on the road!"
• "You guys roll through stop signs all the time!"

(I have to ask which "you guys" they are referring to, since there are no "you guys" --just me)

This results in cognitive dissonance ("This guy on a bike dares reply to ME, a Driver!!?!"). Unable to engage in discussion,  they commence expletive-filled tirades and drive off.

This before I have the opportunity to tell them I own two cars and a motorcycle and probably drive more and pay more taxes then they, and that they are, in fact, not owed Total Road Ownership.

It's very frustrating.

So I think I'm going to print up a bunch of cards and hand them out when I catch these idiots (I also carry a few other items to ensure the encounter doesn't go too far).

Fortunately, in 2012 the Pennsylvania Vehicle Code was amended to enhance safety for cyclists and guide motorists' behavior with respect to cyclists.  The key provisions are:

Four Foot Buffer Requirement: When passing, drivers must allow at least four (4) feet between the right side of the vehicle and the left side of the bicycle [75 Pa.C.S. § 3303 (a) (3)] . When safe to do so, it is legal to cross the center double yellow line if necessary to provide the required four feet when passing a bicycle [75 Pa.C.S. § 3307 (b.1)].

Right to Lane of Travel: Bicycles have the right to be in the lane of travel and there is no requirement that a bicycle be ridden at the right side of the right lane. It is only where a bike is moving at less than the prevailing speed of traffic that a cyclist must take reasonable steps to avoid impeding traffic [75 Pa.C.S. § 3364 (b) (2)]. While this can and should include moving as far to the right as is practicable, the law specifically states that a bicycle need not move to the right where:

1. it is unsafe to do so due to road conditions [75 Pa.C.S. § 3301 (c) (2) and 3505 (c)],
2. the road is only one lane in each direction [75 Pa.C.S. § 3301 (c) (2)],
3. the right hand lane is for turns only and the rider is going straight [75 Pa.C.S. § 3301 (b) (2)],or
4. the bicycle needs to move left to make a left turn [75 Pa.C.S. § 3301 (c) (1)].

Prohibition Against Forcing Off the Road: It is illegal to force a bicyclist off of the road. A driver may face criminal charges.

No Right/Left Hook: No turn by the driver of a motor vehicle shall interfere with a bicyclist proceeding straight on a roadway or shoulder [75 Pa.C.S. § 3331 (e)].

May Proceed Through Red when Traffic Signal does not detect Bicycle: Standard traffic signals sometimes do not detect bicycles. A cyclist may treat the signal as malfunctioning and proceed with caution [75 Pa.C.S. § 3112 (c) (2)]

PA VEHICLE CODE (TITLE 75)

Backpack or Panniers?

Unfortunately many of the newsgroup posts and blogs I've read on this topic are absolute: "Real Commuters Have panniers!"

My impressions are completely superficial and overly simplistic but....

Pannier Users (PU) have cycled across continents wearing cargo shorts. PU have no need to exceed 15 MPH -- if fast was the point, PUs would drive their Prius to work.

Backpack Wearers (BW) wear heart rate monitors and have more than one road bike. They won't even consider installing fenders. They know what a KOM is and hear Phil Liggett's voice in their heads when they sprint.

I'll admit I'm a roadie. I don't race (anymore) but enjoy riding fast, know what The Rules are, and run 23mm tires at 120-140 PSI.

I wear a backpack on my 37 mile round trip commute over the rolling terrain of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania and have not once considered installing panniers.

Here are my thoughts:

• I just can't over the aesthetics of panniers on a road bike. My CAAD 10 was not designed for panniers, baskets, or duffle bags.
• Panniers are more likely to catch the wind than a backpack. Panniers are mounted outboard in the relative wind while a pack has very little surface exposed to the relative wind. Wind resistance slows me down. I don't want to be slow.
• Since panniers are mounted lower than a backpack, the pannier (and whatever is inside) is more likely to pick up road crud and get wet in rain or puddles.
• On a warm ride a backpack causes a sweaty back. But if it's warm, I probably have sweaty everything. Cycling specific packs will provide channels for air circulation and some moisture resistance to avoid sweat getting inside the bag.
• The center of gravity (CG) is slightly higher with a backpack. The weight's on me, like a few extra cheesecakes. It's not like I lose all sense of balance in the winter when I gain a few pounds. The "higher CG" argument is bogus.
• I also like the simplicity of a frameless pack -- no racks to install (and carry), no tie downs, no fiddling with straps to remove the pack at the destination, all in an easily packed and unpacked bag that I can carry into the office.
• On the off chance I get separated from my bike, the pack stays with me. This is important when carrying valuables or other sensitive items (which is every commute).
• Panniers would encourage me to over-pack. My small backpack limits what I can carry, so I am very selective.
• Finally, the backpack provides one more source of impact protection in case of a fall.

Cycling Specific Commuter Backpack

I tried a few standard day packs but finally settled on a cycling-specific bag that's narrower than the typical day pack and meant to sit on the back of a cyclist in the drops.  Most day packs ride too high up the back and so the drop position will result in the bag pushing against your neck or helmet of both.

I've been wearing a Timbuk2 Especial Raider backpack since April of this year:

The 2016 model is slightly different

It holds my enormous lunch, two bottles of homemade iced tea, wallet, emergency gilet, Leyzene pump, can of pepper spray, work ID, keys, A## Savers rear fender, a tightly rolled pair of pants and fresh underclothes and socks. There is no room for shoes or a laptop, but I drive in frequently enough that I can stage clothes and shoes in my locker.

Backpack with Blackburn Rear Blinky

The bag has weighed as much as ten pounds, but usually runs 4-6 pounds when fully packed in the morning. I can feel the weight going uphill, but otherwise there's no change to position or approach.

My ride distance is 18.5 miles each way, so the pack has to be stable and comfortable for nearly forty miles a day.

Waffle Pattern Helps increase air flow between rider's back and backpack (sorta)

I've worn it on steamy July afternoons and cold December mornings and it has performed well. The chest strap helps keep the bag centered. There's reflective material on the bottom that's visible to cars behind you. I hang a RoadID and Blackburn blinky tail light on the light hanger on the bottom of the pack.

The pack came with a shirt board for packing a dress shirt. I used it once -- and never since. It's just not practical. No matter how carefully I followed the directions the shirt was wrinkled. I think this is amplified by the position of the shirt nearest the wearer's back -- everything else packed inside is pressing against the shirt while perspiration is making its way into the pack.

I do not commute everyday -- bad weather, customer visits, etc all conspire to make it impractical -- so I use my drive-in days to restock clothes and other necessities (I bring in a gallon water jug to have at my desk in the summer, for example). I suppose if I was riding every day I would need more storage than what the backpack affords. In that case panniers may be warranted.

Since that's not the case for me I'll stick with the backpack.

Whatever you choose, get out and ride!

Commuting in the Dark

I've been commuting to/from work since April. The distance is manageable 15-19 miles and 700' to 1000' vertical gain each way, with reasonably low traffic volume back roads for most of the way. There are a few stretches with heavy traffic but the shoulders are wide (except for one 500 yard stretch with a narrow shoulder).

I'm usually out the door at 6:15 AM in the morning, and around 5:20 PM for the return trip. In November it's dark for most of the ride. In December it's dark the entire ride.

My ride is a 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 with DuraAce drivetrain and Ultegra brakes. If it's raining I ride my 1992 Pinarello Stelvio with full fenders. I rarely ride in cold rain, though, so winter rain riding is rare.

My 2012 CAAD 10 right after an early morning ride

I've captured some of my experiences with various components and present them here for your edification. If you agree or disagree, let me know!

Wheels

The Rol wheels have been solid and bulletproof. They've turned out to be a solid commuter set. I wouldn't pick these to race, but they're fine for the demands of decent-pace commuting.

I prefer my Boyd Rouleur wheelset for fast riding. They're in the garage with Vittoria Open Corsa 23mm tires on right now, but it's unlikely I swap the sets out until spring.

Tires

I was very happy riding Vittoria Rubino Pros until a series of flats from small bits of wire ruined my day. I assume the wire was from shredded tire -- the sort of debris that collects along the shoulder of roadways. The Rubinos had been very good tires, but after a few flats it's easy to lose confidence. Loss of confidence often results in excuses for not riding.

I read lots of reviews and finally decided to put a 25mm rear and 23mm front Continental Grand Prix Four Season on my road bike. My experience with this tire on our tandem has been very good but limited.

Since the majority of the commute is in the dark, I usually can't spot debris until it's too late. I wanted Gatorskin puncture resistance, but not the Gatorskin ride quality (which I found terrible). The Grand Prix Four Seasons have been just as durable, while maintaining the ride quality of the flagship GP4000.

Since I've installed these tires, my commute has been trouble-free, despite 2+ hours of riding in the dark over a variety of unseen hazards. No matter - these tires just roll on through. I have nearly 600 miles on the pair and there is no visible wear yet. I run them 90-100 PSI each. I'm not chasing KOMs this time of year but I haven't noticed any increased rolling resistance or decreased average speed due to tires (the winter slowing is just me being cold and slow).

I bought mine from www.biketiresdirect.com  great prices and fast delivery.

Lights

I have two front and two rear lights, and some rides it's not enough.

Up front, mounted on the handlebars, are a NiteRider Lumina 550 and NiteRider Lumina 750. The 550 is mounted on the left side of the stem to light up 10-15' feet ahead (to spot potholes, nails, glass, limbs). The 750 is on the right side and set up to illumine 35-50' ahead.

The twin lights make me look like a motorcycle or a car with a headlight out to oncoming traffic. I try to keep them on medium brightness when riding with traffic, high on empty backroads. The lights are bright enough on high that approaching cars will often flash their high beams.

Twin NiteRider Lumina Headlights (bike is on Park work stand)

The road is visible up to about 25 MPH. At speeds above 25 I'm overrunning the lights a bit.

I'm not a fan of NiteRider's new mounting system. It's an elastic band thing that is not quite tight enough. The old mounts rattled but that was easily fixed with electrical tape.

But the lights are bright, last at least 2 hours on medium, and charge from a USB port. I plug one in as soon I as I arrive at work. I really like these lights and enjoy the wide lit path and redundancy of two lights.

NiteRdier Sentinel tail light in action

The rear lights are a combination NiteRider Sentinel 40 mounted to the seat post and Blackburn blinky hung on my backpack loop. The Blackburn is bright enough for a secondary light and a good backup in case the primary unit fails. It uses AA batteries but they will last about a month of rides.

The Sentinel 40 is NiteRider's top of the line unit, with a two watt LED with 40 lumen output. There are five modes, from annoyingly blinky but very noticeable to more subtle blinkers and steady light. The light is USB rechargeable. The new feature is the two bright laser lines that are projected on the ground, about 3 feet offset from the centerline of the bicycle. I have no idea if this makes any difference to driver's perception, but it makes me feel better, especially when the light reflects off my ankles as I pedal. The light is visible from a LONG way off, so I almost feel more visible in the dark.

Reflectors

I wear a pair of ankle strap reflectors (I think I bought them from RoadID). They add some movement and width to my profile and also help keep booties on and seal drafty ankles. I'm going to add a pair of arm reflective straps for greater side visibility.

Booties

The never-ending quest for the perfect winter bootie continues. I've yet to find the ultimate combination: warm with being clammy, tight fitting but easy to get over road shoes, durable and reasonably priced.

Sadly the best winter booties are no longer made: the Performance neoprene bootie with fuzzy flocked interior (no idea what this model was called). I've worn these on REALLY cold days (single digits), and they have kept me from frostbite (I can't say I was "warm"). I save these for really cold days because the zipper might finally give out and I'll be without my go-to booties. These are 5 F to 25 F booties.

The next best are the Pearl Izumi booties, 2012 version of their winter shoe cover. It's a decent bootie, but the front end is just too thin. I wear these over toe covers in temperatures from 25-35 F.

I wear the Louis Garneau Neo Protect for slightly warmer rides. They are basic 3mm neoprene with a velcro strip closure on the rear. These are cool weather booties (35-45 F) as they are just too thin for really cold riding.

One recommendation is to use toe covers under the bootie (my favorites are the Pearl Izumi Elite thermal Toe Cover). My toes are the first to feel the frost. While thick wool socks may seem warmer, if you're riding Sidis or other close-fit shoe, you will cramp your feet and reduce circulation. Better to apply more thermal barrier to the outside of the shoe. Wearing toe covers under booties provides another 10 degrees of capability (turning a 40 F bootie into a 30 F).

I've tried the old-pro tip of covering my toes with aluminum foil. It actually helps a bit, but my feet sweat so I have to make sure there's enough ventilation to prevent soggy socks.

The Louis Garneau Wind Dry covers are barely worth wearing. These are thin material, and provide very little thermal protection. Ever so often I'll wear these in the morning when it's 45 or so, but they usually get tossed back in the pile after a ride.

Gloves

One pair I don't use are the Craft Siberians. They seemed promising but two annoying traits have limited their use:

• the center split between the index/middle and ring/little fingers is too long, meaning I constantly have to slide the glove back up lest the seam dig into my hand,
• there's insufficient play to actually manipulate the Shimano shifters.

You might think these problems mean the gloves are simply too tight, but when I'm not riding they are airy and almost floppy. A larger size would not help. While I'm sure Craft makes great products, the Craft Siberian Split Finger glove design doesn't work for me.

My usual winter gloves are a three year old pair of Pearl Izumis (I forget the model, and they aren't made anymore. These are the closest:

I used a pair of cheapo Target ski gloves on really cold days. They were big enough for a liner. The combination was the warmest for those really cold days.

These Pearl Izumi Lobsters are the warmest gloves I own -- Fantastic! Just practice a bit before heading out onto busy roads.

Socks

Wool. If you ride in winter, buy wool socks. On really cold days wear a silk liner sock underneath wool socks.

Clothing

This is a huge topic which I will write about in a dedicated post. Stay tuned!


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