Garmin 500 Cycling GPS Long Term Review

I took the leap into the twenty-first century and plunked down the $390 for a Garmin 500 (with all the doo-dads) last September.

It's not that I've avoided GPS -- my first was 1993 Garmin GPS 2+ (before SA was turned off and 100 meter accuracy was as good as it got). I used that unit for Army training, small plane flying, and general marking of various locations. It still works, although the DB is woefully outdated.

I have many hours behind a Garmin 430W Panel mount in a Cessna 205 and Beechcraft A36 Bonanza. I also have a 496 handheld (with XM weather) I've used in my 1940 Aeronca Chief.

But GPS seemed superfluous for most cycling. After all, I ride the same routes, so I really don't need high-end mapping. My Cateye cyclocomputers have been flawless for tens of thousands of miles, and my Android phone was working (mostly) for capturing rides using the Strava and RidewithGPS apps.

But every so often the phone battery would die, or the ride wouldn't record, or the signal would be interrupted. That was becoming annoying (especially after turning myself inside-out to chase a Strava KOM only to find the effort wasn't recorded).

So vanity practical necessity compelled me to buy a dedicated bicycle GPS.

I surveyed the field, read all the reviews, watched the Pros, and made the same easy choice many others make: Go with the leader.

I choose the 500 and not any of the more sophisticated siblings because it's less expensive and I don't need mapping or wireless.

Setup is simple, installation a cinch (go for the K-Edge, it's the best), and pickup quick. I have the  cadence / speed sensor so a little bit of attention to detail goes a long way. A few zip ties and it's ready to roll. The wheel magnet is the standard deal.

My routine is established now:

1. Unplug Garmin from the USB connection
2. Click into K-Edge mount
3. Press Power
4. Check lights (for early morning rides) and tire pressure
5. Walk out of the garage, stand over, press backlight (if early)
6. Roll down driveway and press "OK" when Garmin announces it sense movement
7. Ride

This sequence ensures the unit has enough time to self-locate. It seems to take longer if you start riding too soon. Better to let it get settled before rolling.

The backlight is great for early morning rides (I commute to work now so it's usually dark the first half of my ride in winter, spring, and fall).

The display is configurable (you use a menu sequence to select what's displayed where and on what screen). I rarely (never?) switch screens. While there's plenty of cool data I'm really only interested in current cadence, HR, and speed, average speed, total distance. It displays all flawlessly.

Cold temperatures can dim the display. My coldest ride was 8 F (actual temp, not bogus "wind chill"). Portions of the display faded, but it recorded the entire ride.

Speaking of temperature -- don't count on the temperature reading in the unit -- the sensor must be buried somewhere inside. It indicates indoor ambient temp for a while before slowly descending to actual outside ambient. It doesn't matter to me since I can check a real thermometer before heading out.

I don't have a protective case -- I'm not doing bunch racing anymore so crashing is slightly less probable. I avoid crashing.

The beeps can be annoying. I have a max heart rate setting and it's too low. When I'm struggling up a 13% grade I *really* don't need nanny Garmin beeping at me. But I forget to reset it until I hear it again. Oh well.

Synchronization with Strava and RidewithGPS is pretty painless ONCE you get it all configured. Recently Chrome told me the plug in won't work anymore. So I use IE for the two services.

NOTE: The Garmin Plugin won't work with most browsers now. Use the free Garmin Express application and link it to your account.

Overall I'm very pleased with the function, size, battery life, and data provided by my Garmin 500. It's been a nice upgrade.

I don't even think about wireless or mapping. After all the wireless feature would eat through cell battery life (not good), and the map would be far to small to be useful. You can pre-load a route in the 500 and let it beep at you when it's time to turn. I'm not a fan so I just review the map and check my phone if I'm really not sure about a turn.

The real benefit of the 500 will be longer rides and rides in Canada. I didn't use the ride logging apps in Canada since they require phone data -- yikes. The Garmin will record the rides and then I'll upload them back at the hotel on wifi -- or even wait until we return home.

If you ride frequently, train, or race you probably should get one of these.

---Amazon Review here:------

The Garmin Edge 500 is a fantastic product. I've been riding road bicycles for many years, and thought my CatEye bike computers were plenty. So I was hesitant to purchase, but have been happy ever since.
The main benefits of this computer are;
--Dedicated unit with long battery life: It does one thing very well -- track and display speed and distance.
--Small and lightweight: Critical for roadies!
--Easy to setup (although reading direction is required!)
--Excellent low light visibility: I ride early in the morning and 8 months of the year it's dark when I start.
--Syncs with Strava and RidewithGPS
--Requires no data plan: This is important for logging rides in Canada. We visit often and my phone would use many $$ of data tracking a ride. This unit doesn't require that so I can log every ride and upload when we return.
--Solid HRM: The only time I see weird readings is when the battery is about to go. The deluxe strap is comfortable and long-lasting (just hand wash it and let it air dry).

Although once every 3 months or so there will be a Garmin error, eventually it gets sorted out and the ride is logged.

I don't rely on this unit for directions, altitude, or ambient temperature. Those features are present but not trustworthy. Who cares? There's a hill? Climb it. When you're finished, load the file and see exact elevation online.

I'm not a fan of the Garmin-provided mount. I immediately purchased the wildly expensive K-Edge mount and have been happy. I use the Garmin mount on my rain bike and it slides, moves, and just feel insecure.

Cannondale CAAD10-3 Long Term Review

I own a 2012 CAAD10-3 (Ultegra). Since buying it I have logged over 13,000 miles on the frame (the wheels, front and rear derailleur, and handlebar have been replaced with upgrades). I've ridden in all sorts of terrain (hilly, 13% grades, rollers, flats), conditions (from 95 F to 8 F), and speeds (15 MPH cruises to 25 MPH hammerfests). This bike replaced a much loved, much raced, high mile Campy-equipped 1992 Pinarello.

At first we had a plain business relationship -- there was no love, just functional acceptance. As the miles increased, I started to appreciate what this bike could do. I started pushing, it started responding. Soon, we had a firm foundation. I've come to appreciate the CAAD10s many virtues, while overlooking a few minor flaws.

The flaws include the PFBB30 design -- it cannot handle rain. My Pinarello is my dedicated rain bike now because a ride in the rain with the CAAD10 meant another trip to the dealer for a BB cleanout and lube (I didn't want to spring for a $150 BB30 Park Press Fit tool). I'm not sure why this particular bottom bracket is so easy to foul. Chris King doesn't make a PFBB30 so the replacement options are limited.

The stock wheels, saddle, and cables are throwaways. I replaced them all within weeks, but that's normal -- I'd rather pay less for the built-up bike and have money left to spend on upgrades.
Cannondale hit a home run with this aluminum frame. It's race capable with a few upgrades (wheels, tires, saddle), and solid, true, and lightweight.

My Cannondale CAAD10 after an early morning winter ride

Strava's Lame "Challenges"

So what's up with Strava "Challenges"? Am I missing something? Or are they are basically re-hashed variants of "Ride 5,000 miles in a month!" or "Ride up Mount Everest in a week!" recycles?

Rules for Being Safe

Here are my personal rules for accident avoidance. Road cycling is not "safe," but risks can be mitigated.

• Ride on roads that permit cars and bicycles to travel the same direction without undue burden on either (this excludes narrow roads, roads with broken shoulders, and roads with many intersections)
• Run a rear blinker (I've tried with and without during the day -- something about the blinking light gets people's attention in some way that helps give me more room)
• Ride in a straight line.
• Be predictable. If you are going to turn, let drivers know. If you are going straight through an intersection, go through the intersection large and in charge.
• Use your ears. Headphones while riding are the dumbest evidence of stupid imaginable. You are riding a bicycle in the great outdoors -- enjoy it! If you get bored, you have insufficient imagination to be a cyclist. Dismount, list the bike on ebay, walk home, and immediately join Gold's Gym.
• Dump the mirror (which is a worthless excuse for a safety device). Unless you are wearing a neck brace, turn your head. If you can't ride straight while turning your head, practice until you can.
• Be noticeable. Hugging the right curb is asking for a sideswipe. Instead, ride far enough left that cars MUST drive AROUND you. People are lazy -- if they don't have to move the wheel they won't. If you feel/see someone coming to close you will have room to dive to the right. Of course if you are riding on a rare wide-shouldered secondary road, stay out of the car traffic lane. Most state laws require cyclists to "stay as far right as practicable" or some such language. The problem is: Who decides what's "practicable?" I assume since I am the cyclists I make the determination. If questioned I can answer that I am avoiding debris and maintaining visibility.
• Stop at red lights. Yeah, you might lose your Strava KOM, but, who cares? Let the drivers know cyclists understand the law and abide by it. IF the red doesn't trip because the sensor doesn't recognize your lycra-clad self, wait until it's safe then shove off (some state laws have this provision. Pennsylvania does not but the state-provided "Bicyclists Rules of the Road" suggests safely riding through after a long wait).
• Wear distinctive clothing. It doesn't have to be a bedazzled abomination, but it should at least be visible. Black is the current cool race kit, but it's not so great at dawn and dusk. If you're going to ride when folks are driving to and from work then it really pays to wear high-vis jerseys. It's dark out, so who is gonna see your Team Sky kit anyway?

Oh -- and wear a helmet.

Fall and Early Morning Chills

Why do the long, warm days of summer pass so quickly? Why are there so few days when I can roll out early in the morning without lights, long sleeves, base layers, bulky gloves, and toe covers?

Monday morning brought a rough re-acquaintance with the rigors of cold-weather riding. 40 F will seem balmy in January, but it was a shock to my non-acclimatized system. I was tired from a busy week and weekend, and only rode 16 miles (with one decent effort on a long false flat near home). I skipped the ride today and plan on getting back out there in the wind tomorrow morning.

Charity Ride

So one Saturday in October (Date to be determined), I'll be riding 100 miles around Lancaster County, PA to raise funds to help defer the cost of Lucy's tuition (goal is $500).

It's hard to ride that far in Lancaster and not climb some hills -- lots of hills. I'll be avoiding the long grinds (Chickies Hill, Turkey Hill) but the route looks like just under 5,000 feet of climbing. Add that to 5 hours of saddle time and it will be a long day!

Please consider donating! It's a worthy cause and (unlike most charity rides) there are no expenses to defray -- no rest areas, no t-shirts,  no sag wagon, and no post-ride party.

Boyd Cycling Rouleur Alloy Clincher Review

I've been riding Boyd Cycling Rouleur Alloy clinchers for a over a year now (>3,000 miles). The set replaced Neuvation wheelset which were fine but started to show signs of wear (Neuvation closed but has since re-opened as Neugent Cycling). I shopped around for replacements and eventually settled on the Boyd alloy wheels.

Aside: Why not Carbon Fiber?

I'm still not sold on Carbon Fiber for wheels. First, costs for comparable CF wheelsets are usually double alloy. Second, CF wheelsets often weigh as much (or more) than a comparable alloy wheelset. Third, CF braking is still suspect in the wet. Fourth, CF is for racing and I don't race (except against myself and the occasional Strava segment). Finally, I don't need to impress anyone (I ride a CAAD10, not exactly impressive in a world of $10k wunderbikes).

Back to Boyd Review

So alloy it will be. The reviews of Boyd wheels were nearly all positive. The wheels are built in North Carolina. From the Boyd Cycling FAQ:

"We have all of our wheels handbuilt in our own wheel building facility in Greenville, SC by very experienced wheelbuilders. Our wheel builders only work on our wheels so they know them intimately and can build the highest quality. Many wheels are built in assembly factories where wheel builders are building for dozens of brands and expected to build 40-50 wheels per day. At Boyd Cycling each builder completes the wheel from start to finish which allows much better consistency and quality. The wheels are trued and tensioned to spec utilizing a tension meter that is calibrated every second wheelset. We thoroughly stress relieve 4-6 times in the tensioning process so the wheelset is ready to ride. Every wheelset is checked over by three people before being shipped out. A wheelset is only as good as the build, so we make sure we can monitor every aspect to ensure the highest quality."

I pulled the trigger and in a few days my new wheelset was dropped off my my local UPS delivery guy (who knows I have a thing for bicycles). The wheels were packed one upon the other in a single box but with enough strategic cardboard packing material to prevent scratches.

I immediately checked the wheels for true and they were both perfectly aligned. Spoke tension sounded even (the old fashioned pluck test). The BOYD logos on the side are big -- really big. They are laser etched so don't add any weight and otherwise look fine. You're not going to easily cover these with stickers. If you try, immediately read Rule 57 and then come back.

Tire mounting was the normal hassle with way-too tight Continental GPs, 23mm. Eventually they yielded and the next morning I took the CAAD out for a ride.

My initial impressions were very good. The wheels felt smooth, stiff, and true. The only minor issue is rear hub noise. Instead of the satisfying click-click-click of an old Campy hub the Boyd read issues a rather tinny sound like coins in a can.

But that complaint exposes a lack of commitment to The Ride: Why am I coasting? Ever?

So the Boyd's remind me not to coast. After all, I am on a ride, carved out of precious moments of a busy day -- why coast through any of that? I can coast in my car, sofa, or office desk. There should be no coasting on The Ride and the Boyd rear hub is a finger wagging reminder that coasting is for "bikers," never a cyclist.

Glamour Shot of the CAAD10 Sporting Boyd Rouleur Wheels

So I have over 3000 miles on these and they still roll true, feel stiff, and look good. The weight for the set is an acceptable 1550g.

If I was racing I'd be hoping on the CF bandwagon (and tubular, too). But I'm not, so these wheels will do just fine.

---------------LONG TERM UPDATE------------------

I bought a set of Shimano WH-series wheels for commuting, but put these back on for an event this past weekend in DC (Air Force Cycling Classic). I was rolling down the backside of AF memorial hill in a group when I hit a HUGE pothole at 30 MPH. It was the hardest I've been rocked on a road bike in years. I pedaled gingerly to see what would be loose, cracked, or broken -- nothing. I finished the ride and checked the wheels -- still true.

If you're looking for fairly light, bombproof, and good value, you can't beat these wheels.