Commuting in the Dark

I've been commuting to/from work since April. The distance is manageable 15-19 miles and 700' to 1000' vertical gain each way, with reasonably low traffic volume back roads for most of the way. There are a few stretches with heavy traffic but the shoulders are wide (except for one 500 yard stretch with a narrow shoulder).

I'm usually out the door at 6:15 AM in the morning, and around 5:20 PM for the return trip. In November it's dark for most of the ride. In December it's dark the entire ride.

My ride is a 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 with DuraAce drivetrain and Ultegra brakes. If it's raining I ride my 1992 Pinarello Stelvio with full fenders. I rarely ride in cold rain, though, so winter rain riding is rare.

My 2012 CAAD 10 right after an early morning ride

I've captured some of my experiences with various components and present them here for your edification. If you agree or disagree, let me know!

Wheels

The Rol wheels have been solid and bulletproof. They've turned out to be a solid commuter set. I wouldn't pick these to race, but they're fine for the demands of decent-pace commuting.

I prefer my Boyd Rouleur wheelset for fast riding. They're in the garage with Vittoria Open Corsa 23mm tires on right now, but it's unlikely I swap the sets out until spring.

Tires

I was very happy riding Vittoria Rubino Pros until a series of flats from small bits of wire ruined my day. I assume the wire was from shredded tire -- the sort of debris that collects along the shoulder of roadways. The Rubinos had been very good tires, but after a few flats it's easy to lose confidence. Loss of confidence often results in excuses for not riding.

I read lots of reviews and finally decided to put a 25mm rear and 23mm front Continental Grand Prix Four Season on my road bike. My experience with this tire on our tandem has been very good but limited.

Since the majority of the commute is in the dark, I usually can't spot debris until it's too late. I wanted Gatorskin puncture resistance, but not the Gatorskin ride quality (which I found terrible). The Grand Prix Four Seasons have been just as durable, while maintaining the ride quality of the flagship GP4000.

Since I've installed these tires, my commute has been trouble-free, despite 2+ hours of riding in the dark over a variety of unseen hazards. No matter - these tires just roll on through. I have nearly 600 miles on the pair and there is no visible wear yet. I run them 90-100 PSI each. I'm not chasing KOMs this time of year but I haven't noticed any increased rolling resistance or decreased average speed due to tires (the winter slowing is just me being cold and slow).

I bought mine from www.biketiresdirect.com  great prices and fast delivery.

Lights

I have two front and two rear lights, and some rides it's not enough.

Up front, mounted on the handlebars, are a NiteRider Lumina 550 and NiteRider Lumina 750. The 550 is mounted on the left side of the stem to light up 10-15' feet ahead (to spot potholes, nails, glass, limbs). The 750 is on the right side and set up to illumine 35-50' ahead.

The twin lights make me look like a motorcycle or a car with a headlight out to oncoming traffic. I try to keep them on medium brightness when riding with traffic, high on empty backroads. The lights are bright enough on high that approaching cars will often flash their high beams.

Twin NiteRider Lumina Headlights (bike is on Park work stand)

The road is visible up to about 25 MPH. At speeds above 25 I'm overrunning the lights a bit.

I'm not a fan of NiteRider's new mounting system. It's an elastic band thing that is not quite tight enough. The old mounts rattled but that was easily fixed with electrical tape.

But the lights are bright, last at least 2 hours on medium, and charge from a USB port. I plug one in as soon I as I arrive at work. I really like these lights and enjoy the wide lit path and redundancy of two lights.

NiteRdier Sentinel tail light in action

The rear lights are a combination NiteRider Sentinel 40 mounted to the seat post and Blackburn blinky hung on my backpack loop. The Blackburn is bright enough for a secondary light and a good backup in case the primary unit fails. It uses AA batteries but they will last about a month of rides.

The Sentinel 40 is NiteRider's top of the line unit, with a two watt LED with 40 lumen output. There are five modes, from annoyingly blinky but very noticeable to more subtle blinkers and steady light. The light is USB rechargeable. The new feature is the two bright laser lines that are projected on the ground, about 3 feet offset from the centerline of the bicycle. I have no idea if this makes any difference to driver's perception, but it makes me feel better, especially when the light reflects off my ankles as I pedal. The light is visible from a LONG way off, so I almost feel more visible in the dark.

Reflectors

I wear a pair of ankle strap reflectors (I think I bought them from RoadID). They add some movement and width to my profile and also help keep booties on and seal drafty ankles. I'm going to add a pair of arm reflective straps for greater side visibility.

Booties

The never-ending quest for the perfect winter bootie continues. I've yet to find the ultimate combination: warm with being clammy, tight fitting but easy to get over road shoes, durable and reasonably priced.

Sadly the best winter booties are no longer made: the Performance neoprene bootie with fuzzy flocked interior (no idea what this model was called). I've worn these on REALLY cold days (single digits), and they have kept me from frostbite (I can't say I was "warm"). I save these for really cold days because the zipper might finally give out and I'll be without my go-to booties. These are 5 F to 25 F booties.

The next best are the Pearl Izumi booties, 2012 version of their winter shoe cover. It's a decent bootie, but the front end is just too thin. I wear these over toe covers in temperatures from 25-35 F.

I wear the Louis Garneau Neo Protect for slightly warmer rides. They are basic 3mm neoprene with a velcro strip closure on the rear. These are cool weather booties (35-45 F) as they are just too thin for really cold riding.

One recommendation is to use toe covers under the bootie (my favorites are the Pearl Izumi Elite thermal Toe Cover). My toes are the first to feel the frost. While thick wool socks may seem warmer, if you're riding Sidis or other close-fit shoe, you will cramp your feet and reduce circulation. Better to apply more thermal barrier to the outside of the shoe. Wearing toe covers under booties provides another 10 degrees of capability (turning a 40 F bootie into a 30 F).

I've tried the old-pro tip of covering my toes with aluminum foil. It actually helps a bit, but my feet sweat so I have to make sure there's enough ventilation to prevent soggy socks.

The Louis Garneau Wind Dry covers are barely worth wearing. These are thin material, and provide very little thermal protection. Ever so often I'll wear these in the morning when it's 45 or so, but they usually get tossed back in the pile after a ride.

Gloves

One pair I don't use are the Craft Siberians. They seemed promising but two annoying traits have limited their use:

• the center split between the index/middle and ring/little fingers is too long, meaning I constantly have to slide the glove back up lest the seam dig into my hand,
• there's insufficient play to actually manipulate the Shimano shifters.

You might think these problems mean the gloves are simply too tight, but when I'm not riding they are airy and almost floppy. A larger size would not help. While I'm sure Craft makes great products, the Craft Siberian Split Finger glove design doesn't work for me.

My usual winter gloves are a three year old pair of Pearl Izumis (I forget the model, and they aren't made anymore. These are the closest:

I used a pair of cheapo Target ski gloves on really cold days. They were big enough for a liner. The combination was the warmest for those really cold days.

These Pearl Izumi Lobsters are the warmest gloves I own -- Fantastic! Just practice a bit before heading out onto busy roads.

Socks

Wool. If you ride in winter, buy wool socks. On really cold days wear a silk liner sock underneath wool socks.

Clothing

This is a huge topic which I will write about in a dedicated post. Stay tuned!


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Review of Molteni Arcore Long Sleeve wool jersey from Vintage Velos

The Molteni long sleeve wool jersey from Vintage Velo was a gift from my lovely wife this year (I might have provided a link prior to the celebration):

I've been eyeing this garment for a while. Last year I considered asking for one for Christmas but they sold out.

This year it was ordered in time (I can't speak to shipping speed as I didn't know when it was ordered and when it was delivered --it was a 'surprise').

I can tell you it looked really, really good when I took it out of the gift bag -- the colors were authentic, yet vibrant. The lettering was sewn in place (again, authentically), the seams tight, and the feel of the fabric consistent and smooth. It's a size large, which concerned me, as I usually wear a medium in jerseys (even some of those are a bit big).

I tried it on and was pleasantly surprised -- a perfect fit, with just enough room for an undershirt. This is not a skin-tight aero jersey -- but Eddy didn't use this jersey for time trails -- why would I?

Eddy Merckx

I was anxious to wear it but decided against using it for commuting -- I wear a backpack and didn't want the straps pulling on the wool fabric.

Finally a Saturday morning came along that promised sunshine, if not abundant warmth (it's been a mild December so far, but temperature sin the mid-20s are still the norm before it warms up to 45-50 by mid-day).

I rolled out under clear skies, temperatures hovering around 35 F, winds light. I wore the jersey over a Craft long sleeve mid-weight undershirt and Santini bib tights.

The usual temperature profile for a morning ride in winter (for me, at least) is freeze the first three miles, gradually warm the next three, and then feel OK the rest of the ride, with fingers and toes chilled a bit if the temperatures are below 25 F.

If I leave feeling warm (or at least not cold), then soon I'll sweat and eventually be REALLY cold.

So I endure the first 5-10 minutes in order to finish the hour plus in the cold.

When I started the ride with the Molteni wool jersey, I felt decently warm.

That wasn't necessarily a good thing. I started to wonder if  I overdressed...

I decided to press on and see how it worked. Mile 3, 4, 5 -- by now I was up to operating temperature and rolling along. I could feel the slightest hint of moisture by mile 6, and a bit more at the top of the one decent hill on this loop (a 10% grind after a 2-3% approach).

But I never felt sweaty or clammy. Whatever perspiration I produced was quickly transmitted to the atmosphere.

The jersey never felt itchy (I have ridiculously sensitive skin which made sleeping on Army wool blankets a true test of fortitude). It never felt clammy, and yet I never felt cold.

The rear pockets are the normal three slots, a bit narrower than most modern polyester jerseys, but still usable. Sleeve length, overall size, and look were near ideal for me  (I have a typical cyclist body-  narrow up top, wider below. I'm 6'1", 175 and usually wear a size 15 1/2 33 dress shirt, 40 to 42 sport jacket).

I returned home after the quick 20 miler feeling good. I really like this jersey. It's authentic, fits well, and is just about perfect for thermal regulation in 25-45 degree weather. I haven't had it out in less than 25 F, so I can't say if it's suitable (though it probably is with sufficient base layers underneath).

It would be too warm for me in anything over 45 F, so for me this is a cold fall/spring, warm winter jersey.

I ride year round so I have a pretty good system for layering. I don't rely on any single garment, so there's no one jacket or jersey I'm depending on to keep me warm or dry.

The real benefit of this jersey is that you can proudly display the colors of one of cycling's brightest stars. Those who recognize this jersey will smile. The rest will think, "Hunh -- that's kinda different.."

Either reaction is fine with me.

Eddy says, "Wear it with pride!"

http://www.vintagevelos.com/en/team-jerseys-long-sleeve/45-molteni-long-sleeve-wool-jersey.html

Rol Wheels Volant Review

I've been very happy with my Boyd Rouleur alloy wheelset (reviewed here). I added another set when this year's edition went on sale for a few days in September.

Nevertheless, I like trying new equipment and thought I'd give the Rol Wheels a try. They had a sale going that made their Volant alloy wheels comparably priced to the Boyd Rouleurs (at regular MSRP the Rol wheels are more expensive).

Ordering was easy. Not long after I placed my order I was notified a shipping label had been created, soon thereafter I learned they shipped -- cool!

A few days later the box appeared on my front porch. Both wheels were nicely packed (tight, but still protected). I pulled them out, checked the overall build quality and figured they would be good commuters. I did not weight them but they felt heavier than the Boyds (the Rol wheel works site claims 1660 grams for the Volant set while the Boyd Rouleurs claimed weight is 1527 grams).

The rear hub had the same tinny sound I'm getting used to these days of super-lightweight everything (my 1997 Campy Super Record -equipped steel Pinarello is still the standard by which I judge every component), but it seemed slick enough and engaged instantly at any wheel position.

When I had some free time I mounted a set of Vittoria Rubino Pro 3 tires on the set in order to make a fair comparison (I use the same tires on the Boyds for training and commuting). I use 25mm on the rear, 23mm out front. The Rol wheels were standard size so the tires went on without too much trouble.

Setup for winter commuting with Rol wheels and Continental Grand Prix 4 Season tires

It was too late to test ride so I planned to just ride them to work the next morning on my somewhat hilly commute (18.5 miles one way). I rolled out in the AM and settled in for the ride. I hear a few spoke pops but that's normal for any wheel on the first trip. But then the sound continued -- mile 5, mile 10....

And then I stood up to climb the last little bit of Hickory road, a nice little back road that gradually rises from 3% grade at the bottom to 10% at the top (with a 13% kicker at the turn). All the way up I heard and felt wheel rub on my back brake. When I got to the top I hopped off an spun the wheel -- yep, as suspected, a nice wobble. Ugh. Brake loosened I continued on, grimacing each time I heard a spoke pop. This was NOT fun.

I made it to work but wasn't looking forward to the ride home. Fortunately the spoke pops reduced and the wide open back brake allowed the wheel to pass by without rubbing. But I could tell I was on "squishy" wheels that were robbing a few of the small number of watts I usually produce.

I immediately emailed Sean Lambert, owner of Rol Wheels:

Sean,
I'm sorry to report that I took my first ride with these wheels this morning (18 mile one-way commute over rolling Lancaster County paved, smooth, lightly-traveled farm roads) and was wildly disappointed.
There was spoke pop from mile 1 to mile 16, the back wheel rubbed the brake when standing up hills, and the front wheel is not true.
When I mounted the wheels I thought the front looked a bit off but chalked it up to illusion due to the large white logo. I checked tension and noticed a wide variety in notes among the spokes (checked the same point midway up the spoke, comparing same side).
But after riding today I moved the brake pads closer to check and sure enough the wheel was not true.
I really wanted to like these wheels -- the reviews are nearly all positive, and the Volant seemed perfectly suited my riding needs.
For comparison, I rotated off a set of Boyd Rouleur alloy wheels that list for $100 less. Those wheels came true and remain so after more than 2000 miles. Prior to those I used Neuvations and Shimanos RS-series (lower- end training wheels, but all in the 1600-1700 g weight/ $400-500 price range).

A bit later that morning I received this response:

Dan, I'm terribly disappointed to hear this. I will call you to discuss this morning. I have a Doctor's appt with my son this morning and then will be in the office. 
Talk with you soon. 

We did talk on the phone later that day and Sean expressed his concern and said he would ship out a replacement set immediately. A couple of days later they arrived. I mounted the same tubes and tires and tried the new wheels. I plucked the spokes, spun them on the work stand -- so far, so good.

The next morning I took them out -- Excellent! This was what I excepted: a decent wheelset that ran true, had been pre-stressed, and exhibited no spoke pop or wobble.

I've been riding these since August on my commute (a little less than 19 miles, 700-1000' of climbing each way for a total of 15000 miles) and they have been solid commuter wheels: Bombproof, solid, dependable.

They are a bit heavy but they aren't sold as race wheels -- the description on Sean's website calls them a "daily driver." That's where these wheels shine.

After the initial issue customer service saved the day and I can heartily recommend Rol Wheels.

NiteRider Sentinel Tail Light Review

The day's are shorter and I'm commuting to work most days so it was time to look at my safety items. I've been very happy with the excellent NiteRider Solas tail light (later iterations solved the loose mount issue that plagued the earlier versions). It was a solid light with decent brightness and battery longevity (I usually could commute for a week on one charge).

When the NiteRider Sentinel popped up as a sales item on Biketiresdirect.com, I clicked "Add to Cart."

The unit came mostly charged, so I tested it in the garage -- Wow! this thing is BRIGHT! At full blinky mode I think it might be too much for early morning rural roads (no need to blind already distracted, tired, inattentive drivers).

The second blink mode is more a pulse, from very bright to moderately bright and back. It's not as distracting but is still visible a long way.

What really sets the Sentinel apart is the laser lane designator, which is a small class 2 laser that projects a 6' line parallel to the centerline of the bicycle (when mounted upright to the seat tube). The line is about 3' from centerline. When pedaling the light appears on the back of my reflective shoe covers.

I rolled out at 6:15 this morning in the dark. I turned the NiteRider Lumina 500 Headlight (still a very good unit) and Sentinel tail light with blinking laser lights and pulse blinker mode.

My route follows quiet back streets until Main Street in Mount Joy turns into state highway 230 east of town. 230 is a secondary highway with pedestrian traffic and a nice wide shoulder and is frequently used by cyclists and a few Amish buggies.

The posted speed limit is 45 but people still fly on this road (making the actual speed more in the high 50 range). This morning I had no close calls, and several cars slowed and passed with a bit more caution.

Of course there's no way to credit this device with the improvement in driver behavior. But I'm convinced that noticeable lights help attract attention, and in this case enough attention that driver's have to process and adjust.

A phenomenon many pilots encounter when flying at night over large metropolitan areas is losing (or not seeing)  the airport. While airports have unique lighting features, they are often overwhelmed by the hundreds of thousands of lights in the area. Early in my Private Pilot training we flew to Baltimore Washington Airport at night. I couldn't see it! My instructor suggested I look for an  absence of lights -- and then I saw it -- a dark rectangle ringed with blue lights. Only after that could I make out the approach lights and runway edge lights. We landed and a lesson was learned.

Years later I flew from Pittsburgh to Georgia. It was late and very dark (no moon). The GPS was indicating the runway 1.5 miles out and the sky was severe clear, I looked intently but simply could not find the runway (runway lights are white, yellow, and red -- very common light colors in a populated area).

Finally I noticed a different color (in this case, the blue lights of the parallel taxiways) that caught my attention. We landed without incident.

It's the same for drivers -- we "see" many lights (especially early in the morning before sunrise), but our minds are trained to react to certain hues of red, green, and yellow. We've trained ourselves to ignore other lights.

The NiteRider Sentinel draws attention by being different enough to be noticed in a sea of lights. The red laser lane designators help drivers notice that there is something there. They notice a difference, slow or move away as they process, and then pass.

And that's all I want -- see me and avoid me!

Once the sun peaked out the lasers were simply too faint to be noticed. I turned them off and let the blinky catch some attention. The light is bright enough to be visible in morning and late afternoons. It's visible in bright sunshine but obviously less effective.

The NiteRider Sentinel is a great tail light and I can wholly recommend it as gear in the commuting cyclists' safety tool box.

Waving

There's a charming little custom among motorcyclists that cyclists should adopt. It's called the Wave, and it's considered poor form to refrain.

NOTE: Sure, there are some Harley purists who refuse to return a wave to anyone riding a "rice rocket," but they come by rudeness honestly, as they tend to suffer from various intestinal ailments and are constantly disappointed by the performance and durability of their machines. So we'll ignore them.

I make it a point to wave to any oncoming cyclist I see out on the roads. Of course this rules makes no sense on a bike trail, in a race, starting out on a tandem, or during a time trial. So we're absolved from this bit of etiquette while in engaged in those pursuits.

Otherwise, it's good form to wave and recognize the other person out toiling along on the roadways, exposed to the same weather, hazards, hills, wind, and dogs as you. While he/she may be pushing a 45 pound iron-framed Wally-World special, it's not your place to judge. Perhaps you started out on one of those heavyweights and gradually embraced high-quality Italian (Taiwanese) Carbon Fiber.

It doesn't matter -- that's another person riding a bicycle and that is a Good Thing. No matter our supposed level in the imaginary hierarchy, there's hardly ever a reason not to wave. Yet too often I've encountered Joe Catthree wannabe seething with rage as he (almost always 'he") passes by on the opposite side, unable to break concentration to wave since he's this close! to breaking that Strava KOM on Superflat Road.

It's beyond silly.

NOTE: If this description offends you, please close this page and continue your search for Altitude Sleeping Systems.

When you pass someone, it's also good form to say "Hello!" in a bright, cheery way that conveys mutual enjoyment in cycling. It's poor form to motor past someone like Armstrong strung out on Poe and T. I also time my pass when there's plenty of room (so I'm not threading the needle between the other rider and cars). Pas son the left if you live in a country that drive son the right side of the road.

We are a minority. We cyclists are all battling the elements, distracted drivers, narrow, debris-strewn roads, hills, wind, fatigue, and age.

So let's give a cheery wave or "Hello!" and help make the battle slightly less demanding.

Giro Synthe Helmet Review POST CRASH UPDATE August 2017

The review below was written after my initial use of the Giro Synthe.

--- Added 7 August 2017 ----

I wore the helmet over many miles with no change in opinion -- this was the best road helmet I'd ever used. It was light, fit well, and became as un-noticed as bar tape.

It was there, it worked, ride on.

Early Saturday, June 24th, I planned to meet up with the usual riding group. It had rained a bit overnight, but dawned gloriously -- a perfect early summer day.

I rolled into the elementary school parking lot and turned -- as usual -- to perform a 180 to bleed off speed from the slight downhill -- nothing fast, maybe 15 MPH. I've performed this maneuver every time I've met the group.

Except this morning there was new, wet pavement, with just enough oil to make it slick. My front wheel slid to the left. I tried to pull it back but before I could react I hit the ground with my right side. I was conscious the entire fall. I heard the helmet crush and felt my head bounce a bit, but my sunglasses stayed on.

When I tried to roll over to unclip I felt a searing pain in my right hip. Later, x-rays indicated multiple fractures of the right acetabulum.

Two weeks in hospital and then rehab inpatient and I was home for a long recovery.

When I examined my helmet, I found far less damage than I expected:

Right Side Abrasion Damage

Impact Damage

Right Side Crack

I contacted Giro and they offered a 30% discount off full MSRP.

I'm not sold on MIPS (more on that here: http://www.helmets.org/mips.htm and an excellent response from Specialized here: http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/1306043-mips-helmets-)

So I searched eBay until I found an identical replacement for my Giro Synth.

Once cleared to ride the roads again I'll be riding with a Giro.

And I'll be happy.

--- Original Review ----

My Giro Atmos and Limar Ultralight are both a few years old so it was time to replace them. Helmet technology has continued to evolve and the new Giro Synthe promised to provide both aerodynamic efficiency and cranial cooling (I prefer a cool cranium).

It looks cool, too.

It took a couple of weeks before I pulled the trigger but when I did, I took the advice of another reviewer on www.biketiresdirect.com and ordered the Large.

When it arrived I was pleased with the shape, design, and retention system, but I was NOT pleased with the Death Star Fire Control Operator look -- far too big and it looked awful.

I exchanged for a medium and it fits perfectly. It feels tighter than my previous helmets but it doesn't squeeze my head (there's a difference). The fit is low and close without being a vise. The internal suspension system helps provide space between your head's surface and the inside of the helmet.

My other helmets sit on my skull with the weight of the helmet borne by a few small pads. This is fine when the pads are new but as they wear there is less and less cushioning. Sure, you can replace the pads but it's not long until the pads are flattened again.

The suspension is different in the Synthe. Instead of resting the helmet directly on the head, the Synthe is suspended by the Roc-Loc system. This spreads the weight over a larger surface. While at first look you may think the plastic suspension will dig into your head (like twist ties), in fact it never feels that way. It's a remarkable feat, but somehow it works.

The suspended approach also permits airflow across more surface area.

It's a simple yet revolutionary approach that will soon be copied on other helmets.

My experience is that you should order whatever size you normally wear. The Roc-Loc 5 system permits enough dialing in to adapt to your head.

I wear a thin skull cap/ beanie under my helmet, and that can add a bit to required helmet size (so I doubt the Synthe will work well for winter riding -- there's just not enough slack left to accommodate my thicker winter headgear).

I started wearing beanies year-round a few years ago when I developed allergic reaction to yellow jacket stings. Now when those ever-angry critters get smashed through my helmet vents there's time for me to rip my helmet off before they start stinging (without the cap they would get tangled in myt hair and often have time to sting). I also find the cap helps with cooling when I pour water over my head in the heat.

The Giro Synthe looks pro, is appreciably light, and it far more venty than it appears in the glamour shots. I really like the Roc-Loc 5 suspension retention system -- it's very lightweight yet secure. The x-static material in the straps are a nice touch, but I normally wash my straps regularly so never really had a problem with stinky gear (I find lukewarm water with a tiny dab of Dawn dish washing liquid works best).

I rode 57 miles with the Synth in the AF Cycling Classic in Crystal City, VA. By the end of the ride the ambient temperature was 91 F with 80% humidity. I didn't even notice the helmet until I realized there just wasn't as much wind noise as I was used to -- it was noticeably quiet. I also didn't feel the weight on the top of my head after 2 hours that I would feel wearing the Atmos.

While the Limar is light, the suspension system consists of wafer-thin pads fastened to the underside of the foam: this results in the entire helmet resting on 4 small points. So while the overall helmet is light, the sensation is fatiguing after a few hours.

The Giro Synthe performed very well and I have no regrets about the purchase.

I have a minor gripe about the finish, though, as it was less than perfect. I found a few ragged edges where the shell material wasn't completely trimmed clean. While I'm sure they are cranking out a ton of these somewhere in China, it doesn't matter. For this price, Giro should take an extra 30 seconds per unit for QA checks and reject any helmet with sloppy trim.

Commuting

For the past three years I drove 67 miles -- each way -- to work in Maryland. While I enjoyed my work and the people, the commute was taking a toll. By the end of each week I detested cars, roads, and people driving cars on roads.

In March I ended my time with Booz Allen and moved on to Sechan Electronics, a small business in Lititz, Pennsylvania that manufactures military electronics. It was a good fit and a good move.

One fringe benefit is the commute -- 15 to 18 miles each way (depending on the route), over relatively quiet back roads in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

Typical scenery on my commute

Nevertheless, despite the "get out and do it!" rah-rah from commuter cheerleaders, bicycle commuting is challenging.

Of course safety is a consideration. I try to use a route that minimizes my interaction with cars.

Still, every so often someone passes me doing 70 MPH (yes, really) on a posted 35 MPH back road.

Distracted drivers continue to be the primary hazard. I lose count of the number of drivers I encounter who are gazing down while driving around a turn. It's astounding we don't have more fatalities, as my non-scientific but regular observations lead me to conclude over 30% of all drivers are either texting or talking on a handheld phone while driving. And this isn't just sitting at a traffic light -- people are texting mid turn, while passing, and while driving down a straight and drifting either into the opposing lane or off into the shoulder.

One controversial (but so far effective) strategy is to ride far enough to the left of the curb (near or in the driving lane, depending on the width of the roadway) to force the drivers to notice and then drive around. Of course if there's a wide shoulder there is no need to annoy people, but most back roads are barely wide enough for two cars to pass. If I ride right at the extreme edge of the roadway cars blast pass with no deviation while I avoid all sorts of hazards (gravel, debris, cracks, grates, etc.). But 3-4 feet off the edge gives me room to duck in if I sense a car is going to pass me too closely, keeps me out of the grate-and-gravel-zone, and makes me visible and forces drivers to notice and adjust accordingly.

Of course this doesn't imply blithely pedaling along at 12 MPH letting traffic back up.

Pennsylvania law requires cyclists ride "as far to the right as practicable," yet new laws require drivers to allow at least four feet from the vehicle to the cyclist. This is a huge improvement, but since few drivers keep up on road laws, few know about it.

A few other provisions of PA law (Title 75 of the Pennsylvania Consolidated Statutes) include:

• When passing a bicyclist, drivers must allow at least four feet between their vehicle and the bicycle.
• Drivers are permitted to cross the center double yellow line if necessary to provide the required four feet as long as it is safe to do so.
• When traveling below the posted speed limit, cyclists must keep to the right side of the road unless they are making a left turn or riding on a one-way street.
• If there is only one travel lane, bicyclists may use any portion of the lane to avoid hazards on the roadway.
• No turn by a driver can interfere with a bicyclist who is proceeding straight on a roadway. Drivers attempting to turn left must yield the right of way to bicyclists traveling in the opposite direction.
• It is illegal for motorists to force a bicyclist off of the road, and drivers who do this may face criminal charges.

I have four categories of consideration:

Timing imposes a requirement of fitting the commute time into all the other commitments in a given day. Some days we have events scheduled right after work, and so there is not enough time to ride home, shower, and get to the event. Some mornings I need to be to work early, other days I will be travelling to a customer site. So a set schedule is helpful, but not essential. On time-constrained days I ride a loop near home before I head to work. On other days I'll ride a longer route to or from work to get more miles in. You just need to be flexible and consider mileage as a weekly total.

Logistics can be the biggest challenge, but it's become fairly routine. I load the car with clothes on days I drive in and keep them in a small office closet (not everyone has this personal space available, but there is likely some spot where you cans tore clothes). I also carry in some easily-stored snacks. I have baby wipes, a hair brush, and deodorant stored here as well. Cheap flip-flops are hammed into the bike rack. I ride in, leave the flip-flops and bike at the rack, run upstairs, change in the men's room stall and use a copious amount of baby wipes to freshen up (I shower before the ride so it's just sweat and some road dust). Most mornings are not scorching hot, even in Southeastern Pennsylvania. The ride home in the afternoon usually requires a shower, but that's a 5 minute rinse and feels good as it helps me cool down.

Fuel remains an uncertain variable. The latest research suggests riding on an empty stomach will help train your body to burn fat. Maybe. But I wake up hungry. So I have toast, nut butter, and jam before I head out most days. I've experimented with breakfast when I arrive but that requires a bit more planning.

Fitness continues to be the main consideration. I don't feel up to commuting 5x a week -- it's draining and I end up being slower than if I commute twice a week at a good tempo. Everyone is different so I don't propose this is true for everyone. But it's easy for we obsessive types to over-train and end up slower, more fatigued, and weaker than when we started "training." I find the variety of conditions commuting imposes is good for me -- it's easy to say, "Nah, it's too hot/windy/cold/dry/wet/dark/bright..." and stay inside. But if you rode to work and want to go home -- guess what?

Of course you should have options in case the weather is truly dangerous. I will not ride in ice, snow storms, winds over 35 MPH, or thunderstorms. It's unsafe and I don't need to prove anything. In those situations I skip the ride or ask for a ride home.

Early Morning Rides

But on the whole commuting is a wonderful option that helps you ride more, decompress, feel, see, and hear the real world, and build those miles that make you a better cyclist.