Cold Weather Riding

It was cold (again) this morning. I left early (still dark) . Overcast, light winds, 19 F.

Here's the clothes required to make riding in the teens bearable:

The pile consists of:

• 100% wool socks (purchased 2 years ago from a small store in the Chateau Frontenac, made on the Island of Orleans)
• Carhartt polypropylene liner socks
• Performance Thermal Booties (no longer available from Performance and a real shame)
• Diadora Road Shoes (slightly large, so my thick socks fit)
• Castelli knickers
• Castelli thermal bib tights
• Voler tank undershirt (best year-round cycling garment I own)
• Target-brand compression long sleeve jersey (as effective as the under-steel stuff and 1/10th the price, $12)
• Off brand polypro knit turtleneck long sleeve jersey (Target, $15)
• Hind thermal long sleeve jersey (TJ Max, I think, $10)
• Louis Garneau High Vis cycling long sleeve jersey (High Vis is great on these early morning rides)
• Big ski gloves (also Target, $15)
• Thermal skull cap (no idea where or how much -- maybe Nashbar?)

I have a rear blinking light and a head light. That coupled with careful choice of roads helps maintain the safety edge.

By the end of my ride my toes were cold, but everything else was warm enough without being clammy. Of course I wasn't pushing too hard but still -- the combination of layers works.

Short ride (23 Feb 2014)

Not a lot of time -- or energy -- this morning to ride. It was overcast at 29 F, so all the melting would leave a few black ice stretches across the roads. oh well -- I rolled off at 7:05 and returned at 8:05.

I shuffled across a few icy stretches, and just rode steady cadence the rest -- no pushing today. There sky was mostly overcast with a few patches of blue far to the northwest.

This video is short (16 minutes) since I didn't check the memory card before departure (lesson learned), but it contains the best parts of this ride, including the Siegrist Covered Bridge, an assembly of Amish buggies where church was being hosted, and a very nice on room schoolhouse built in 1884 (now someone's home).

Sun! Warmth! Ice! 22 February 2014 Ride

Finally, temperatures above freezing! It's been a long, cold, dark, snowy, icy winter in Pennsylvania and any melting is appreciated. After yesterday's fogfest I saddled up and headed out before the predicted 33 MPH winds kicked up.

Here's today's ride with a few "shuffle across black ice" scenes edited out.

http://youtu.be/0QvFynebLbI

RidewithGPS v. Strava: One Opinion

I have a paid membership to both Strava and RidewithGPS. Here's my opinion:

Strava

• Cooler name
• Competition-based
• Lots of local members
• Cleaner (e.g. less wasted pixels) interface
• The first provider with solid smart phone app

RidewithGPS

• Far superior route planning
• More comprehensive ride metrics
• Nicer ride diary
• "Leave me alone I'm not racing anybody"
• Dedicated smart phone app finally released and it's fine (then I bought a Garmin 500 so don't use it)

I have a small share of Strava KOMS and an enormous share of KOM attempts. There are few segments nearby I swap with local racer-dudes.

I raced for a couple of years back in the early and mid-90s. It was fun to ride fast with training group rides. It was better to hang with other folks as into riding as me. I joined a team, signed up with a coach, and started seeing results. Then I crashed hard in a local criterium. I rode a couple more races after that but the light came on that said, "Wake up -- you're not being paid to do this and you have responsibilities."

So we bought a tandem and spent more time riding two-up. I spent less time at VO2 max, and more time saying "Look at that!" to someone I wanted to be with and who wasn't on the rivet (more on Tandems in other posts).

Strava takes me back to VO2 Max.

RidewithGPS is like my flying logbook -- a record of what I did, when I did it, and what I learned, failed to do, or will do better next time.

If you're a Strava fanatic, great -- enjoy! It has really changed training and riding for lots of isolated riders who can't train with a club or team.

NOTE: Strava's getting lots of attention, and it should -- slick interface, simple concept, solid delivery, BUT my Android hasn't been happy since the last update. Two rides ago it claimed I rode 8 MPH over 12 miles. Last ride it took FOREVER to load.

If you're a RidewithGPS guy, welcome to the more laid back club.

Now that RidewithGPS has released their long-awaited App, I've switched almost completely to logging rides in RWGPS. Every so often I think, "Oh! This is a KOM stretch!" Then relax, and tell myself, "Who cares?"

It's quite liberating, but I'm sure once the weather warms and I shed 10 lbs of winter clothing I'll be booting up Strava every so often on those days I'm feeling fast. Then I'll push super hard, come home, check the board, and find I'm 2 seconds slower than Local KOM Dude, who apparently doesn't have a job but can afford a Di2 equipped Venge. Then I'll leave Strava for week or so.

And then...

You know the drill.

My Favorite Online Stores

I've spent a small pile of cash at www.biketiresdirect.com. But that's OK, since they have the tires I prefer at the best prices. As a regular, you are eligible for daily specials. I usually check once a day to see what stuff I really, really need (usually I don't need it).

Shipping is free after $100 total cart, so I usually combine my purchases. If I need something right away, I'll buy from Amazon using my Prime membership to get it shipped free.

I purchased my bicycle from a local bike shop, and every time I drop in for repairs or whatever I usually drop a couple of bucks on something small. But for tires, lubes, tools, lights, and clothes, I shop online.

Performance/ Nashbar isn't as competitive on tires and parts. I used to use Performance almost exclusively, but no more (there isn't one near me or my work).

I've been very happy with Voler clothing. American made, decent prices, good fit. Ever since I bought a Voler Technical Tank undershirt I wear it every time I ride. It helps keep me warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

Cannondale CAAD 10 3 Ultegra Review

My primary ride these days is a 2012 Cannondale CAAD10-3 (Ultegra) with a set of Neuvation wheels, Vredestien Gran Fondo 700x23 tires, and a Sella Italia Flite (1990 style).

I've ridden my 1992 Pinarello Stelvio at least a hundred thousand miles, but in the summer of 2012 -- as my mileage started climbing back to what I used to ride back in the late 90s -- parts started wearing. When I learned replacement parts would cost twice than what the fully-built bike cost in '92, I decided to take a different approach.

It was time to start shopping for a new bike.

Now some may think this is good: "Yay! A shiny new bike!" But for me, it was a struggle. The Pinarello and I had been together over many, many miles. The Campy parts just worked -- silently, smoothly, and with awesome precision.

But now shifts were slipping, chains were rubbing, and we started to grow apart.

It wasn't easy. The Stelvio was an old, faithful friend. But now I was being let down. It takes time to process that, accept it, and move on.

Over the next few weeks I stopped by a few bike shops and looked at the Carbon Fiber Wonder Bikes. They were amazingly light, with corresponding price tags. Eventually I found a cheap part or other reason to keep looking.

Back on the Pinarello I had yet another annoying ride where I skipped shifts a couple of times going uphill (the Campy shift lever was worn and so slight thumb pressure inside the pivot would release the rear derailleur spring, resulting in instant shift to the 11 tooth rear cog, which is zero fun pedaling uphill).

I decided to start looking in earnest and stop making excuses.

I stopped by the local Cannondale dealer and checked out the offerings. The bikes were all lightweight, decently equipped, and priced three times more than my mental budget limit.

Gretna Bikes in Lancaster, PA

(These prices were equal to what I paid for a 1981 Ford Fiesta. My Pinarello cost $1700 in 1992).

The SuperSix EVO was amazingly light, had a weird white/ lime green paint scheme, and was well equipped with solid SRAM RED groupset. I took it for a short ride and was astounded -- had bicycle technology improved that much in 20 years? The ride was stiff, responsive, and yet firm -- there was a solid connection to the road. I shifted gears a felt the SRAM set clunk into place firmly.

This was very, very nice.

I rolled the SuperSix back in and asked to ride the CAAD10 to compare. At first the CAAD10 felt -- well, it's hard to describe how it felt. Perhaps "less smooth" works. It wasn't a rough ride, it was simply less dampened.

But soon I warmed to the sensation -- I could feel the road, and that is good. Of course the wheels were consumer-grade and need to be replaced, but the frame, fork, and drivetrain were solid. Every pedal stroke resulted in immediate forward motion. This bike was light, too. The EVO was 15.5 pounds, this bike maybe 2 pounds more. Good grief -- one less water bottle and they'd be the same weight.

A stock 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-3 Ultegra on the Showroom Floor

I rolled back in and thanked the guys for the test spin.

The groupset is the decent, workable Shimano Ultegra. It can't match the sheer artistry of the late-90s Campagnolo Record set on my Pinarello, but times change, and Campy gear is now insanely expensive.

Maybe Shimano is good enough after all...?

The wheels... well, the wheels are Mavic's Aksium. Yeah, lowball wheels to keep the overall price down. I get it. I'm not racing and it would be a while before I would wear these out so they'll stay. The tires were Mavic something or others (those I replaced pretty quickly with Continental Grand Prix). The saddle was a ProLogo torture device. FSA Cranks looked decent and felt stiff enough.

I came back a few days later and made an offer (MSRP? Who pays that?). The response was a quick "OK" (hmm, should have offered lower). I said that would work if they would replace the stem with a 140. They agreed.

(Good folks over at Gretna Bikes in Lancaster, PA!)

It's a "deal" when both seller and buyer are happy.

I was happy.

I brought the bike home but it was too late for a ride. I put mounted my Look pedals, checked tire inflation, and waited for the next morning when I saddled up and took it out.

I wasn't happy.

While the bike was set up to match the measurements on my Pinarello, the saddle felt awful. Upon closer inspection it was about 2 mm nose down from level. That coupled with the slightly wider sit area made it pure torture.

Next, the right STI shifter slid down, apparently not fully tightened on installation.

I replaced the plastic seat with the Selle Italia Flite off my Pinarello, and brought the bike back to the shop for shifter fixing. They apologized profusely, reset the STIs, and sent me on my way.

The next morning ride went better. The Flite saddle coupled with solid hoods to rest on helped. Compared to my steel Pinarello this bike felt downright twitchy. But that was fine -- I liked the responsiveness. The bike also felt better on climbs, and accelerated faster on the flat.

I was happy again.

Since then, I've logged over 8,000 miles on the CAAD 10, with most rides between 20 and 40 miles, in wind, cold (as low as 8 F), and scorching heat (95 F). The bike needs good wheels to fully exploit its capabilities.

Riding my Cannondale CAAD10-3  with totally non-matching tires/wheels (I need more than one picture of me)

The bike is not a touring machine. It wants to be pushed and dawdling results in drift. This bicycle was meant to be ridden at a steady cadence (for me that means 80-100 RPM), with lots of out of the saddle climbs, lots of speed, and lots of  miles.

The Shimano Ultegra derailleurs and I have finally come to a truce (it been the noisiest drivetrain I have ever ridden). Now it shifts well and doesn't require frequent tuneups. Replacing the stock Cannondale shift cables with Jagwire cables helped.but unless it's dialed in to within a micron you will have chain rub, chain grind, and other shifty nonsense. It took me a solid 6 months to figure out. I'm sure the Campagnolo drivetrain spoiled me forever.

Eventually I took the plunge and upgraded the drivetrain to Shimano Dura Ace 7900 (Front and Rear Derailleur and chain). That and new wheels made the CAAD 10 a race-ready bike. The difference between Ultegra and Dura Ace should be slight. Well, not really. the DA stuff shifts more smoothly, grinds less, and looks cool. I'm spoiled,bu Camp awesome but DA is pretty perfect.

After 50 miles of rough pavement you will be more beat up on this bike than you will be on a high end carbon fiber or steel bike. It's a firm ride -- "plush" is not in the design spec -- and unless you are a supple rider you will feel it. I rarely ride over 50 miles, though I've ridden the CAAD10 on a few of hilly metric and full centuries. I finished, but was glad to be done. I'm sure the SuperSix EVO would be a better choice for true long distance fast riders.

Use the $3000 you will save (over a similarly equipped carbon ride) to buy decent wheels and tires and good cork handlebar tape.

I'm very happy with the Cannondale CAAD10-3. It's been a fine upgrade and a component machine. Kudos to Cannondale!

Fog Ride 2/21/2014

There was  a brief window this morning to get a ride in before intense work schedule and more intense thunderstorms rolled through. A quick check of accuweather and  then a moment outside confirms the prediction -- cold, foggy, damp. Oh well -- no way I'm spending an hour on the trainer when I can hear real asphalt humming under my wheels.

I don't even consider the GoPro today. First, the lens will be covered with water drops in seconds. Second, the video will be insanely dull -- an unending ribbon of pavement surrounded by varying shades of grey and white. No thanks.

It's easier to dress when it's very cold and dry -- lots of layers, ski gloves, neoprene booties, and thermal skull cap under the helmet make 15 F rides possible and reasonably safe. Moderately cold and damp (36 F) weather is a challenge. Over dress and the perspiration that would evaporate on drier days makes for clammy -- and inevitably cold -- riding. Under dress and it's just plain cold. I opted for one less layer than I wear on 20 degree days and rolled outside.

It was foggy -- and getting foggier. As the dew point spread gets closer, more water converts from vapor to liquid, making fog. It was slowly warming and that spread was coming down. At this rate the visibility would be a few hundred feet. Oh well, I'm not flying an airplane today, I'm wearing a Hi-Vis jersey, have a bright NiteRider Solas 2 Watt USB Tail Light, and a NiteRider Lumina 700 USB head light on full blink mode. It's after the normal morning rush so I should be OK.

The first mile is chilly but that's normal. Soon cadence, heart rate, breathing are normal and I make my way to the back roads. It's really getting foggy -- Soon I can barely see 30 yards ahead. The melting snow blanketing the fields fuse with the hazy light. I'm glad the roads are clear and the snow and ice have melted -- there's no way I would see an icy patch in time around a corner.

I follow a normal loop route, stopping and spending a bit more time at intersections looking for cars and trucks. About 20% are driving without lights on. It amazes me, really. Don't they understand that lights are as much about being seen as to see? Maybe not...

I don't push, ignore Strava KOMs, and enjoy a short 19 mile loop. By the time I'm home I'm drenched from the damp air. The bike rolls into the garage and onto the work stand and I go in and replace wet lycra for normal daytime attire.

Tomorrow is supposed to be clear, but windy. Clear? Above 30 F? I'll be outside...

My Rides on YouTube (Good for indoor trainer sessions)

I'm using a GoPro Hero 3+ Black edition to record selected rides for use by folks stuck riding indoors on a stationary trainer (I'm one). I'm looking forward to recording scenic spring and summer vistas all over Lancaster County and elsewhere but for now it's sky, road, and snow. Sorry.

I didn't add a music track since everyone has a music preference and can add a personalized soundtrack to indoor training times.

Comments appreciated!

February 17th, 2014: Sunny, 16 degrees (F), 25 miles

President's day is a Federal holiday, so it's a day off when I really didn't need one (especially after all the snow days we've experienced this winter). After an early morning work session I checked AccuWeather and figured it was my first chance to get outside in over a week.

I pulled out all my winter cycling clothes and decided to go with a pair of thermal tights over bib knickers, and 4 underlayers with a screaming yellow Pearl Izumi long sleeve jersey over it all. Ski gloves for my hands, thin polypro socks with heavy wool socks over, slightly large Diadora road shoes with no-longer-available yet awesome Performance neoprene booties.

I waddled out to the garage, set up the GoPro Hero 3+ Black Edition, started Strava, and rolled the Cannondale CAAD 10 out the driveway.

The first couple of miles in the cold are usually the coldest: overdressed and you will start to sweat. You want to be almost chilly at first until you warm up to operating temperature, but not warm enough to sweat. Perspiration moistens your clothes, increasing heat loss. When its below 30 F, that gets uncomfortable.

I rolled along and squinted in the intense sunshine reflected off the abundant white snow. The roads were mostly clear. I shifted until I found a gear combo that let me pedal along around 85 RPM - I'd pick it up once I warmed up.

I planned to head southeast but traffic kept me rolling along I changed the route and headed west, then north. The wind picked up to about 10 MPH form the west-northwest.

The infinite variations of terrain out on real roads  reinforces the artificiality of the stationary trainer -- I feel so out of shape! Oh well -- this is what will get me back in shape.

The miles passed by in brilliant blue whiteness. My cadence regular, breathing steady, feeling adequate, but not strong. I was surprised at how much work it was to fight the wind.

The roads were fine until I rolled into Manheim, where my side street route through town presented large sheets of well-packed ice. I detoured a few times, shuffled slowly a few others until I made it out of town. I hit the short, steep (13%) Power Road with zero inertia and churned up. The ride down Sun Hill Road was brisk, and not far down the GoPro beeped to let me know the battery was done. 1:20 in 16 degree temperatures is about the limit, I suppose.

I shuffled across a few more large ice patches on Auction road, and was happy to turn onto clear, no-ice Strickler road.

25 miles in 1:40 is no speed record for me. I suppose I can pick up my ice shuffling pace a bit. Let's plan on no ice next time I ride outdoors!




Strava Ride Page

The Endless Winter of 2013-14

This has not been a good year for year-round cycling in the Eastern US. A cursory review of my ride log on RidewithGPS shows I rode 500 miles outside in January and February 2013. So far this year I have logged 13 outdoor rides for a grand total of 263 miles outdoors. The rest of my rides have been on the Kurt Kinetic Trainer.

Fun Times: Lancaster County roads, February 14th, 2014

The Kinetic fluid trainer is a solid base for indoor riding. The fluid resistance unit is the most realistic I've used. While it can permit variations in resistance (depending on how tightly you screw down the coupler to your back tire), it's worth that small variance.

Kurt Kinetic Road Machine Fluid trainer

I use my trainer in the living room with a mat underneath and a Cyclops riser. It's not the same as riding outside but I work on steady and fast cadence drills (90 RPM steady, up to 160 RPM sprints). I can handle an hour on the trainer, but after that I lose interest.

Tandem: Shoes and Pedals

We both use the Look pedal system. We have tried the Shimano SPD, but they resulted in too much pressure on a very small a part of the foot. The Look platform is wider and therefore more comfortable over time.

Janet has a pair of Shimano shoes with Look pedal adapters (go figure!) and I have a pair of Sidi shoes.

Sidis are the most comfortable cycling shoes I’ve ever used. They are lightweight, stiff, and yet amazingly comfortable. I use a pair of Diadoras in the winter, since they run a bit larger and let me wear a thicker sock. We don’t ride the Tandem in winter, though as Janet doesn't enjoy freezing.

The only downside to Look pedals is the tricky clip-in. Looks are balanced to fall a certain way to enable quick clip-in, but if they don't fall correctly you will not clip in. I'm sure Speedplays are better for quick entry, but I'm not interested in setting up a whol new shoe-pedal combo just for the Tandem. So we are a bit more careful on pushoff and deal with the sometimes missed clip-entry.

Tandem: Tire Selection

For several years we used Continental Grand Prix 700x25 on our road Cannondale Tandem. They worked fine on the smooth, mostly debris-free roads of Lancaster County, but were no match for Western Pennsylvania rail trails and rough roads. The Contis rolled well, took corners solidly, and always provided a firm sense of the road.
After some research I decided to try Schwalbe Marathons. I picked up a set of wire bead 700x28s. It took me forever to mount them – they are unbelievably tight and I hope I never have to change a flat on the road – a reason to reconsider these for next time, surely.
I took the tandem out solo a couple of times to test the brakes, shifting, and ride with the new tires. Inevitably some comedic genius would see the empty stoker seat and yell as I rolled by, “Hey! You lost somebody!”
I’d reply, “Oh no! Where’d she go?!”
The tires did not give me the same confidence as the Continentals. The Marathons sounded squishy, turns were wobbly and uncertain, and rolling resistance seemed higher.
I returned, fiddled with the brakes and checked the tire pressure. 80 PSI, yet the range was 80 to 110.
I pumped them up to 105 and tried again – better. Resistance was down, turns were slightly more stable, and the squishy sound was reduced. Still, turns under load with two up are not as solid – there is a definite hunting that seems to be a result of deeper sipes and zig-zag tread pattern. The Contis and Vredestiens we used to ride were basically slicks, with a solid feel all the way over in the lean. But the Marathons seem to grab unevenly on the edges in a turn, resulting in the slight wiggle that reduces confidence.
The Schwalbe Marathons are probably the ultimate tire for wear and puncture resistance. The thread is thick (and is apparent in weight), and the rubber hard. These are probably a good option for western roads where goathead thorns are a problem.
We took a twenty mile ride over rolling terrain past farm yards, along rough shoulders, over gravel and potholes with no complaint. The 28mm wide tires absorb more road shock and inspire confidence for higher speed runs in the 30s. Still, the tire deforms somewhat under load (such as standing to climb a steep, short hill) and the wiggles in the turns are not confidence boosting.
Despite the confidence these tires inspired I switched back to Continental Grand Prix 700x25mm. The Contis provide the stable, smooth, fast ride I'm used to, while being tough enough to inspire confidence.

Tandem: Teamwork and Starting

Teamwork

Tandems -- like canoes --  have reputation as "divorce machines. " Some couples purchase a tandem and expect to roll along in sunny, happy, bliss. If they get started and don’t fall over, within five miles the marketing bliss is replaced with anger, frustration, and even disgust. The tandem gets hung up in the garage, and life gets back to non-riding normal.
It doesn't have to be this way.
A tandem requires a level of trust and teamwork. Teamwork means you do what's best for the team, and set self interest aside. So when you see that hill looming ahead, while you would prefer to pull over and sit for a while, together you push over that hill to get home before nightfall. You work together to achieve the goal. Trust means you have faith in the ability of your partner to do what's best for the team. So the captain sets a cadence the stoker can sustain, avoids potholes and ruts, and steers as gracefully as possible to avoid a rough ride. The stoker calls out cars coming from behind, points out scenic views and interesting spots, helps maintain the cadence, and gives the captain a pat of gratitude when a pothole is missed or an accident averted.

Starting

Getting started is the hardest tandem maneuver. Two people have to coordinate efforts, stay upright, roll forward, avoid hazards, clip-in, and accelerate to a comfortable speed. Here's how it's done:

1. Find a level or slight downhill grade. If you don't have one, walk the bike until you find one.
2. The captain mounts first, then the stoker. The captain holds the bike steady.
3. The captain  and then stoker clip in to the left side.
4. The captain warns the stoker, then rotates the pedals until the left side is up around 11 o'clock position (looking from the left side -- so you have your left foot up, your right still down on the ground holding the bike up).
5. The captain looks ahead, makes sure the road is clear, and then counts -- 2-1- Go!
6. On Go both riders push off with the right foot (like pushing a scooter) while rotating the left (pedaling with one leg) If the bike has achieved adequate speed, the stoker can clip in as the captain continues pedaling. The captain may not be clipped in on the right yet but that's fine. More important is keeping the bike moving fast enough to maintain balance.
7. Once the stoker is clipped in the captain clips in.

Practice this in a large, flat parking lot for a while. Practice getting started until you can do it with minimal chit-chat. It needs to be as instinctual as getting started solo since eventually you will be out on the roads where road noise will not permit verbal communication.

Tandem: Riding

Roles

The captain rides up front and is responsible for steering, braking, navigating, watching for hazards and bumps, and setting the cadence and gear selection. The stoker rides in back and provides power, manages maps, cell phones, water bottles, food, and turning hand signals. The captain rides through the bugs and the wind and sometimes rain while the stoker is hunkered behind the captain, blocked from most bugs and wind and rain.

The stoker‘s trust and confidence in the captain must be complete, and the captain must be a strong and careful rider to earn and maintain this trust. The captain must look out for potholes and obstructions since the stoker can’t see the bumps and therefore can’t rise up out of the saddle in time. If the bump is unavoidable, the captain should tell the stoker early enough to take action.

Cadence

The captain should set a cadence that both riders can comfortably maintain. Cadence drives gear choice.  A good rate to shoot for on a longer tour is 60-70 RPM. This is fast enough to keep the bike rolling while not so slow that the entire effort is mere brute pushing.  80-90 RPM works fine for short bursts of speed (taking advantage of a slight downhill, racing through a light, or just blowing by some poor soul on a single).  Higher cadences are unnecessary for the typical touring ride, thus a range between 60 and 90 is best.

The captain must be able to determine if there will be enough inertia to roll over the hill or down shift before the hill so the transition is not made under pressure. Tandem chains are longer so shifts don’t happen as quickly as they do on a single.

Manuevering

Tandems  are massive bicycles. With mass comes inertia, which means more force is required to start, stop, and change direction. Tandems longer wheelbase also mean tandems require more room to make a turn.

But once you get rolling, you’re more likely to reach higher speeds and sustain that speed over gently rolling terrain. There’s a significant difference in the experience on a tandem when you get the pedals cranking and ride at 25, 30, 35 MPH. Which is why a good, solid frame is critical – you don’t want high-speed shimmy on a tandem, and you want full control on the road when you’re rolling along at car speeds.

Another Snowstorm

Really?

I'm back in Syracuse.

Or is it Buffalo?

Anyway, it snowed.

Again.

February 9th rush ride

I only had a short window Sunday morning before snow started flying in the afternoon, so I wheeled the Cannondale out and rode 21 miles under cloudy skies. It was still good to be outside but my hands were cold by the end of the ride -- 20 F can bite.

February 8th Ride

It was cold (18 F), but the sun was out and most of the roads were clear so I took advantage of a Saturday morning to actually ride on roads (as opposed to a stationary trainer).

I rode 21.1 miles and shuffled .2 on ice, but it was worth it. Soon (soon?) we will be enjoying warmth, sunshine, and green growing things. We're done with winter, thanks.